|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||Paul Bradt, Don Hubbard, Sam Moore 1939|
|Submitted By:||Andy Weinmann on Oct 18, 2011|
|Comments on Lower Skyline Direct (LSD)||Add Comment|
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 27, 2011
After looking through Tony's guides and climbing around this corner a good deal, I've finally figured out what's what in this area. The latest book lists several options for LSD, each of which could be characterized as variations in their own right and will hopefully be listed in the new book that Tony is working on. The pic that I posted shows what I always thought of as "LSD", but is actually a variation. I've found it to be a clean and well-protectable corner that feels about 5.7. The face and crack system to the left I have always assumed to be Skylab (5.9) and the outside buttress/arete to be P1 of La Bella Vista (5.10a).
Another option moves right from the start of LSD's P2 and traverses over to join Skyline Traverse near the start of that climb.
The original line goes left from the P2 belay and climbs a wide crack/chimney to the Skyline Traverse Ledge. Take a couple large pieces (4-5").
By Mark Maier
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
|The one thing this route has going for it is that it probably will be free on a busy afternoon when all the known routes have lines on them. It appears you can get on this route from either the west or east side of the buttress. We came in from the east side and went up the whole corner system in one rope length. While the holds are positive and there is plenty of gear things sounded hollow and various holds creaked. It seemed pretty loose to me.|