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South End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Different School of Thought T 
Birds of Prey T 
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 
Candy Corner T 
Drop Zone T 
Ecstasy T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 
LSD Direct T 
Muscle Beach T 
Simple J Malarky T 
Sixth Sense T 
Skyline Traverse T 
Southwest Buttress Variation T 
Spinnaker S 
Sunshine T 
Superstition T 
T & T T 
Tony's Nightmare T 
Totem T 
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Paul Bradt, Don Hubbard, Sam Moore 1939
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Paul Deagle Looking down hanging belay at bolted a...

Description 

Fun little alternate to getting up to the Skyline Traverse belay ledge when Ye Gods and Little Fishes and/or Candy Corner are busy. A good lead for up and coming trad leaders.

P1: Climb up through broken, sloping rock to a large pine tree. Pass the pine on the left and continue straight up a short, blocky section to a good-sized flat area with loose rock just below the obvious left-facing corner. The first pitch fin of La Bella Vista will be to your left. There's a block here you can sling with a cordelette for an anchor.

P2: Step out left, under La Bella Vista's fin and move over into a chimney with a steep ramp to its left. Climb the chimney and ramp to the top and up to the Skyline Traverse two-bolt anchor.

Several variations exist to do Pitch 2. You can move up and right and follow the corner until you can step further right and then move over onto Skyline Traverse by passing through a chimney. You can also move up and follow the steep corner straight up from the belay which goes at about 5.7.


Location 

About 15-20 feet right (down) from the start of Candy Corner at the base of a large tree. There is a well-stomped out, flat area here.

You can rap from the Skyline Traverse anchors but why not continue up another route? From the top of this you can link to Skyline Traverse, Dufty's Popoff, Kauffman-Cardon, etc on the Southeast Corner.


Protection 

Standard Seneca rack. Bring some small nuts for the first piece or two on P2...there isn't much there. Hexes work well on this pitch too.



Photos of Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) Slideshow Add Photo
Probably route locations on the east face of the Skyline Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Probably route locations on the east face of the S...
Paul Deagle Looking up from first belay ledge (optional)
Paul Deagle Looking up from first belay ledge (opt...
Paul Deagle on the hanging belay at bolts
Paul Deagle on the hanging belay at bolts
Comments on Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) Add Comment
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 27, 2011

After looking through Tony's guides and climbing around this corner a good deal, I've finally figured out what's what in this area. The latest book lists several options for LSD, each of which could be characterized as variations in their own right and will hopefully be listed in the new book that Tony is working on. The pic that I posted shows what I always thought of as "LSD", but is actually a variation. I've found it to be a clean and well-protectable corner that feels about 5.7. The face and crack system to the left I have always assumed to be Skylab (5.9) and the outside buttress/arete to be P1 of La Bella Vista (5.10a).

Another option moves right from the start of LSD's P2 and traverses over to join Skyline Traverse near the start of that climb.

The original line goes left from the P2 belay and climbs a wide crack/chimney to the Skyline Traverse Ledge. Take a couple large pieces (4-5").

By Mark Maier
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The one thing this route has going for it is that it probably will be free on a busy afternoon when all the known routes have lines on them. It appears you can get on this route from either the west or east side of the buttress. We came in from the east side and went up the whole corner system in one rope length. While the holds are positive and there is plenty of gear things sounded hollow and various holds creaked. It seemed pretty loose to me.