Short cragging on sandstone in a beautiful, shady canyon. Mostly sport, but a few trad routes also. Rock quality ranges from very good to not so good. This is a nice place to beat the heat when the rest of Sedona is baking hot.
To the best of my knowledge, most routes were put up by Dave Pastor and are unnamed. If anyone has more info, please contribute anything you can provide.
Access is from 89a, where Pumphouse Wash enters Oak Creek Canyon.
From Sedona: drive North up 89a (towards Flagstaff) to the bottom of the switchbacks and park. There is a small sign for Pumphouse Wash on the right.
From Flagstaff: drive South on 89a (towards Sedona) to the bottom of the switchbacks. The switchbacks start immediately after the Oak Creek Overlook. There is a small sign for Pumphouse Wash on the left.
Once at the parking area, hike & boulder-hop up-canyon for 5-10 minutes until routes start appearing. The first routes are a hard to miss splitter crack with 2 bolts on the right and 2 sport climbs next to each other in a corner on the left.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Pumphouse Wash:
Checked this place out today sort of as an afterthought and only hopped on 3 routes (time constraints). But it seems like most the routes would be in the shade all day (I was there around 2pm). I believe it was upper 90s in OCC and it was very comfortable at the crag. Looks like there are a handful of lines that aren't listed on this page. But didn't do an official count or anything. Might be some potential to put up some other routes but rock quality may be questionable in some areas. Anyway, place is worth checking out but doesn't appear to have too much to keep bringing you back more than a handful of times as of now. Go see for yourself, didn't look like the place saw a lot of traffic so at least you might avoid a crowd.
Approach coming from Sedona: Park at a pullout on the left after the bridge just past the "Pumphouse Wash" sign on the right. This is maybe a 1-2 minute drive past the last campground in the canyon. Hike down obvious trail into the creek bed (bunch of small boulders). Boulder hop north (under the bridge). First sport routes appear on the left after about 7 minutes of this and after a large fallen tree that spans most of the creek.