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Lower Leda

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.5 Trad T 
Big Dave's S 
Crisis of Confidence S 
Cryptic S 
Definite Maybe S 
Footloose S 
giGantic S,TR 
Guardian Angel S 
I Love Twins T 
Misunderstood T 
No Talent Ass Clown S 
Poptop S,TR 
Return, The S 
Rusty S,TR 
Sands of Rhyme T,S 
Treehugger S 
Up Game, The S 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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Lower Leda  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.236, -85.2322 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,387
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 23, 2008
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55° | 43°
Chance of Rain
63° | 39°
70° | 49°
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71° | 55°
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Though it shares the name of the better known Leda (aka Upper Leda) and is in the same general neighborhood, Lower Leda is a completely separate climbing area. Because the cliffline that's worth climbing is relatively short, Lower Leda has only about 25 routes, most of them bolted sport lines. This small volume is made up for by the high quality of the routes on good sandstone. There's also a good range of grades, with a couple of casual 5.5 trad lines; nice sport moderates like The Return (5.8+) and Guardian Angel (5.9+); and challenging 5.12s like Crisis of Confidence.

Lower Leda is a great alternative destination when the main Leda cliff is crowded.

Getting There 

From downtown Chattanooga, go north on U.S. 27 toward Dayton. Take the Chickamauga Dam exit; going left from the exit, drive almost three miles to the second traffic light. Turn left here onto Montlake Mountain Road. Just before a sharp hairpin turn, watch for the entrance to a state park on the left. Park here and cross the road to find a trail about 50' up the road from the park entrance. A 10-minute (or less) hike up the trail will bring you to the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Leda:
I Love Twins   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
giGantic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Return   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Poptop   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Guardian Angel   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
No Talent Ass Clown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cryptic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Sands of Rhyme   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Big Dave's   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Up Game   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Leda

Featured Route For Lower Leda
Big Dave's follows red line.  The blue line is the...

Big Dave's 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  TN : Lower Leda
Great climbing! Big Dave's is like a harder version of its neighbor, The Return, with an exciting roof pull. Soft for the grade but still a must-do for Lower Leda.A short face climb leads to a spacious ledge. From the ledge, move up to a small roof and surmount it on good holds. Continue up to a steep face with a crimpy and balancy sequence to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Photos of Lower Leda Slideshow Add Photo
1. Oh Gigantic 5.7 2. The Return 5.8 3. Big Dave's...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Oh Gigantic 5.7 2. The Return 5.8 3. Big Dave's...
Another shot from the approach trail.
Another shot from the approach trail.

Comments on Lower Leda Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kit Taylor
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 26, 2009
Not nearly as many routes at upper Leda, but with almost a dozen quality, sustained, bolted moderates up to a 5.10 this a great area for new leaders or to take friends who don't climb. Add in the quickest approach ever and you have the makings for a relaxing day of easy climbing.
By Swamp Cookie
From: da Bayou
Feb 28, 2010
We actually have a couple of 5.12's and a 5.13a at lower leda. Fun for everyone. Trad, sport, and mixed routes.
By Rockery Press
Oct 13, 2014
Lower Leda FREE Day Guide
Lower Leda FREE Day Guide

You can download a FREE Lower Leda Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-guid...

Lower Leda Free Guide includes:
Driving & Approach Beta
Rules & Recommendations
Several days of route descriptions and recommendations
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!