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DescriptionThe Lower Gorge is Smith's best "secret." In a park known for its sport lines lies an impeccable collection of cracks. The lower gorge contains more four star cracks than bolts. The majority of the climbs range from easy 5.10 into the .12's. Getting ThereThere are several popular ways to descend into the crack mecca depending on which side of the river you want to climb. As spring turns into summer the river goes down allowing for adventurous boulder hoppers to ford the river and get quick access to both the east and west sides of the river. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Gorge:
Cruel Sister 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
Gruff 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
Wildfire 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
Blood Clot 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
Rim Job 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
Cornercopia 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch West Side : Wildfire Wall
Bad Finger 5.10b Trad West Side : Wildfire Wall
Morning Star 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet West Side : Star Wall
Prometheus 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
Last Chance 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
Original Sin 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet East Side : Hand Job Wall
Master Looney 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet East Side : Arrington Columns
Pure Palm 5.11a Sport, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
On The Road 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
Cry of the Poor 5.11a Trad West Side : Wildfire Wall
Crack-A-No-Go 5.11b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
The Pearl 5.11b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
White Trash 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
Try To Be Hip 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Wildfire Wall
Catalyst 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side : Catwalk Cliff
Featured Route For Lower Gorge
Bad Finger 5.10b OR : Smith Rock : ... : Wildfire Wall
Great climb with interesting moves, a few cruxes and bomber pro.Jam thin hand to hands through a couple small roofs to a finger crack dihedral above....[more] Browse More Classics in OR
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