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Southwest Face / Finger Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chatters S 
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 
Finger Ramp S 
Lower Finger Direct TR 
Lower Finger Traverse S 
No Ethics Required S 
Pig Dreams T 
Place in the Sun S 
Son of Tidricks S 
Tidrick's T,S 
Upper Finger Direct S,TR 
Upper Finger Traverse S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Finger Traverse 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Radigen, Howells, Auld, and Hendricks
Page Views: 2,424
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Brian Wandzilak is a study in determination on Low...
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  • Description 

    This is a devious 5.7. Climb up the Tourist Gully to an eyebolt just below the level of the Finger alcove and belay here. Make an interesting traverse straight right to the alcove, and its bolted belay, passing 3 bolts along the way.

    Rap from the chain anchor in the alcove or continue on Upper Finger Traverse (5.9).


    Protection 

    3 QDs for (3 modern bolts replaced the 3 drilled pins) to a 2 bolt anchor with chains (modern bolts have replaced the drilled pins).



    Photos of Lower Finger Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
    Matt Moore eliminating security at the beginning of the Lower Finger Traverse.
    Matt Moore eliminating security at the beginning o...
    Working his way across the Lower Finger Traverse.
    Working his way across the Lower Finger Traverse.
    Lower Finger Traverse, Garden of the Gods.
    Lower Finger Traverse, Garden of the Gods.
    Lee Rittenmeyer working the Lower Finger Traverse.
    Lee Rittenmeyer working the Lower Finger Traverse.
    Lower Finger Traverse, Garden of the Gods.  Photo by K. Williams.
    Lower Finger Traverse, Garden of the Gods. Photo ...
    Roland and Myong on Lower Finger Traverse.
    Roland and Myong on Lower Finger Traverse.
    The hardest 5.7 you'll ever climb they say...  I can't say that I disagree with that.
    The hardest 5.7 you'll ever climb they say... I c...
    Comments on Lower Finger Traverse Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 10, 2013
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Apr 18, 2002

    Short and sweet. This climb is a fun traverse that goes to the anchor on Finger Ramp. This is a good 5.7 with a bit of sketch factor.

    By David Danforth
    From: California/Colorado
    Jun 23, 2003

    Very good climb. It's odd it doesn't get much more traffic 'cause the line is really nice. Starts up at the first huge eye bolt in the gully. 3 bolts. New compared to say the bolts on Tidricks or A Place in the Sun. They're very solid. The only thing about Fingers Traverse is that it doesn't go at a .7 anymore. Some flakes have broken off in the past yr or so. Adds to the fun. There is a flake just after the third bolt that is coming loose too, so watch out for that so you don't pull it out as well. All in all, it's a very nice route and don't pass it up. -cheers-

    By Caitlin DeMuth
    Jul 11, 2003

    Good route but be weary that a fairly large hold is missing between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The route is definitely not a .7 anymore. It wouldn't be that bad of a pendulum but still, just be careful, like Davy always says, CHEERS!

    By Chris R
    Aug 25, 2003

    A bit contrived, but good moves on solid (for the Finger Face) rock. This line will be easier for those accustomed to bouldering traverses, as it moves almost parallel to the ground. Accurately rated at 5.7, but it's not a climb for beginners or fresh leaders.

    By Brian T. Wandzilak
    Nov 12, 2003
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    I had not climbed this route previous to the holds breaking off, so I cannot attest to the relative difficulty to it. However, I would not put it any harder than a 5.8. If anything it is a bit of a mind game, because it is a different style. But, it is low-angle with apparently solid rock and holds virtually the whole way. A great lead for anyone looking for some GoG variety.

    By Castleton Tower Preservation
    May 17, 2004

    Oh my god! don't let anybody fool you into thinking that this is a 5.7!! Many flakes have broken of and there is almost nowhere for your feet. Be careful getting up to the first it's a long tumble down the gully.

    By Larry C. Schubarth
    From: colorado springs, colorado
    Sep 19, 2007

    Try leading it backwards (i.e. from the Finger to Tourist Gully). That makes it a lead on both ends.

    By Chris Mack
    Sep 27, 2007

    Not even close to 5.7, and harder than 5.8. One of the more sandbagged routes in the state.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 16, 2008
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I feel that this has become harder than a .7-- sketchy to the first bolt and then for the follower after clearing the last bolt. My second took a nasty pendulum fall!!

    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Aug 8, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Delicate crimping, edging, smearing and balance. Damn, I love the Garden!

    By tooTALLtim
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 10, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I thought about it for a while; felt like 5.8 to me. Big swing for the follower if they blow it at the second clip. Glad I didn't get my novice follower on this one!