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Lower Dream Canyon - Plotinus Wall
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By Tina
From Loveland, Co
Jan 5, 2013
me

Does anyone know how to access Plotinus Wall now? I haven't been since the falls closed during the winter months and it's a great place to go and get sun.

Tina


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 5, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Last time I drove by there the trail to the falls was open again. I'll bet you can sneak in the original way. I only went once and remember that natural arch you climbed through.

So I noticed you have a picture of Ten Sleep. I was thinking about going there sometime. How does it compare to Shelf? Speaking of Shelf, it's great right now. You should come on down.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jan 5, 2013
At the BRC

Probably unwise to encourage illegal access in a public forum.

Would be nice to see some progress on access here. I think the BCC is working on it, but it's complicated.


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By Tina
From Loveland, Co
Jan 6, 2013
me

Stich, I love Ten Sleep. Nice for summer months. It's like shelf but more spread out, longer lines and great esthetic. I make it to shelf fairly often during the winter. There or the creek.
Mark, I would like to find a legal way there or one that the private owners don't go after you on or one that doesn't entail tumbling down a scree slope. Too bad something hasn't been figured out, I really did like that wall in the winter.

Tina


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By kevin murphy
From Lafayette, Colorado
Jan 6, 2013
road

You can get there legally from above, access through Sugarloaf. Don't delete please.


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By AndrewJ.
Jan 6, 2013

Yeah if you go up sugarloaf you just make a left onto lost angels rd and follow it to a pretty clear parking area from there the trail head is just a bit more down the road and on your left. I think plotinus is the first wall you come across.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jan 6, 2013
At the BRC

AndrewJ. wrote:
I think plotinus is the first wall you come across.

Are you sure about that? Sounds like you are describing the Oceanic Wall. Also very nice but maybe cold in the winter.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 6, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Thanks, Tina. Good luck finding another way in. The only one I can think of involves going down from the Sugar Loaf Road parking area.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Jan 6, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Stich wrote:
The only one I can think of involves going down from the Sugar Loaf Road parking area.


ditto, I would also advise against going in through Boulder Falls. I think you can potentially get a large fine for that if the right/wrong person sees you doing it.

Plontius is terrific climbing, is there not a way to access from the left and up the hill from the crag? Or must you approach from behind from dream canyon area?


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By Ray Lovestead
From Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2013
I pity the fool

Plotinus wall is a terrific pain in the ass to get to legally. You have to go in through the river and leap, jump and hop your way in. Nice thing is that you'll never see anyone else there due to the difficulty.

Of course, once you get there, you realize you are about 200 yards away from the boulder falls entrance. It's a shame that is 'illegal'.

You can also hike in from above (just south of) and hike down one of the many scree fields. But that entire area is privately owned.


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By Erick Valler
From flat midwest
Jan 6, 2013

The legal access is much easier if you have someone show you the way for your first time, otherwise, very easy to get lost and it is actually pretty dangerous (steep descents, open cave/mineshaft entrances). I got lost for two hours trying to find my way to plotinus, only to have the creek be too high to cross. Then on the way back, one of my dogs fell into a cave opening 50 feet deep at the top of the gully during the retreat. She found her way out by the creek 250 yds away from where she fell in. That was after hours of going up and down trying to find her. On the other hand, if you do make the journey, there is excellent climbing on the right side, The Scientist, Lucid Dreaming, Bobsled, and many others. Left side is over rated slab IMO. Good Luck!


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