| Pedestal Buttress |
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Lower Diagonal 5.8
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Laura Whitmore near the top of Lower Diagonal.
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Description Lower Diagonal starts just to the right of the big dead tree stump. Climb up the crack to a ledge. At the ledge, follow the lower diagonal crack (less defined than the upper) to the corner of the buttress, then climb up the corner to the top.
Protection Standard Rack
BETA PHOTO: Matt Kuehl on Lower Diagonal. This is the best pic...
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Rhoads cruising Lower D.
6/16/10
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J. Hall working Lower Diagonal.
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| Comments on Lower Diagonal |
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By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| Very deceiving route, thought it was going to be an easy 8 but the feet get pretty thin in the middle. |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.8
| I finished left of the corner in a nice crack (this is the normal route). Finishing straight up the corner is unprotected but 5.8 and is a variation called "The Trick" in the guidebook.
Very comparable to Upper D but with more difficult and suspect gear placements. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 21, 2010
| Similar to leading "Chicago" in that there are not a lot of good stances in a sustained crux, the gear is off to one side, and it takes some work to figure out gear that is good. Must have been a real hero climb in the days of the piton! |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 21, 2010
| From the old guidebook, "Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, 1970:
"LOWER DIAGONAL, F8B. This route offers experience in placing pitons on the run. Start the same as Birch Tree Crack. Climb the crack to ledge (A) exit left to the upper section of the Pedestal. (A) THE TRICK, F9A. Climb or attack (indeed, a battle will ensue) wall above directly. First lead by Jim Erickson. First lead of the Trick by Sheldon Smith."
Interesting that almost no one uses the Birch Tree start anymore. |
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