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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way T 
Angle of the Dangle T 
Assume the Position T,TR 
Beginning, The T,TR 
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 
Blow-up T,TR 
Chimney's End T,TR 
Condolences T 
Congratulations T,TR 
Creation Crack T 
D.L.F.A T 
Dog, The TR 
Dyslexia TR 
End Of The End, The TR 
End, The T,TR 
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 
F4 Ledges T 
Flake Route T,TR 
Golden Ledges T 
Hourglass T,TR 
Hourglass Direct TR 
Ironmongers T 
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 
Lethe T 
Lower Diagonal T,TR 
Modern Art TR 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pete's Lament TR 
Pine Box T 
Rich and Famous TR 
Sometime Crack T,TR 
Sometime Direct T 
Sometimes Left Side TR 
Sometimes Right T 
Stretcher, The TR 
Sweatshop T,TR 
Upper Diagonal T,TR 
Welfare Line TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Diagonal 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,331
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Sep 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Rhoads cruising Lower D.
6/16/10

Description 

Lower Diagonal starts just to the right of the big dead tree stump. Climb up the crack to a ledge. At the ledge, follow the lower diagonal crack (less defined than the upper) to the corner of the buttress, then climb up the corner to the top.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Lower Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Laura Whitmore near the top of Lower Diagonal.
Laura Whitmore near the top of Lower Diagonal.
Matt Kuehl on Lower Diagonal. This is the best picture I've seen of this route.
BETA PHOTO: Matt Kuehl on Lower Diagonal. This is the best pic...
J. Hall working Lower Diagonal.
J. Hall working Lower Diagonal.
Comments on Lower Diagonal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very deceiving route, thought it was going to be an easy 8 but the feet get pretty thin in the middle.

By Tradoholic
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I finished left of the corner in a nice crack (this is the normal route). Finishing straight up the corner is unprotected but 5.8 and is a variation called "The Trick" in the guidebook.

Very comparable to Upper D but with more difficult and suspect gear placements.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 21, 2010

Similar to leading "Chicago" in that there are not a lot of good stances in a sustained crux, the gear is off to one side, and it takes some work to figure out gear that is good. Must have been a real hero climb in the days of the piton!

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 21, 2010

From the old guidebook, "Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, 1970:

"LOWER DIAGONAL, F8B. This route offers experience in placing pitons on the run. Start the same as Birch Tree Crack. Climb the crack to ledge (A) exit left to the upper section of the Pedestal. (A) THE TRICK, F9A. Climb or attack (indeed, a battle will ensue) wall above directly. First lead by Jim Erickson. First lead of the Trick by Sheldon Smith."

Interesting that almost no one uses the Birch Tree start anymore.