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Lower Devil's Canyon
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Glitter Box Area 
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Lower Devil's Canyon 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 18, 2006

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Looking across Lower Devil's Canyon at the Glitter...

Description 

Despite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach.


Getting There 

Take the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Devil's Canyon:
Smokin' The Toad   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Hackberry Creek
Going Out Of Chicken Sale   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
El Throatchoker Grande   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Dacite Conspiracy   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Hackberry Creek
Accelerated Climbology   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area
Hidden Splendor   5.9     Sport, 85 feet   Glitter Box Area
The Shmotem Pole   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Adios Larry   5.10b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet   Glitter Box Area
Faith, Hope & Jeep   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
Stairway to Heaven   5.10     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Refuge : Heaven's Gate
Pathological Optimist   5.10     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Totem-Proto Area
Centipede Corner   5.10b/c     Trad, 110 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Damsels in Distress   5.10b/c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Glitter Box Area
Octabulgey   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   The Torch : The Bulges
The Totem Pole   5.10c/d     Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet   Totem-Proto Area
Eyes of the World   5.11a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Glitter Box Area
High Man on the Shmotem Pole   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Cold Rush   5.11-     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Southern Crags
Double Fault   5.12     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Faulty Towers : The Towers
Live and Let Dyno   5.12     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Torch : The Torch
Browse More Classics in Lower Devil's Canyon

Featured Route For Lower Devil's Canyon
DAS pulling through the beginning of the crux sequence on the FA.

In Alignment 5.10+  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Heaven's Gate
Farthest left climb of this region to date. Start on relatively poor rock with easy climbing using gear and two bolts before the roof. One bolt protects the roof move while another gets you to a gear protected crux to easier ground. Above the steep lower section access the right leaning face and continue on the oddly aligned formation to the standard anchors. Finding planetary alignment is a must for this climb!...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Lower Devil's Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
green-throated kettle owl

green-throated kettle owl

This used to be one of the worst parts of the road to Lower Devil's Canyon. Not to be taken for granted though; I wouldn't count on it being this nice for too long!

This used to be one of the worst parts of the road...

View of Lower Devils from LDE

View of Lower Devils from LDE

It's a different world at the base of the ravine on your approach to the far side of the LDC

It's a different world at the base of the ravine o...

Nestor rappelling after getting up #20 Project route.

Nestor rappelling after getting up #20 Proje...

Such a gorgeous mid-May day that we were both in jackets after this post-Damsels in Distress lunch break!

Such a gorgeous mid-May day that we were both in j...

The magical glen that you go through to get to the far northern area -- "Two Bit Shuffle" and "Summer Assault" and then the climb up to Lions Den via "Trickle and Resin".

The magical glen that you go through to get to the...

Hackberry Creek in Lower Devils

Hackberry Creek in Lower Devils

Looking out to East Lower Devils

Looking out to East Lower Devils

 Lower Devils Canyon

Lower Devils Canyon

Luke looking down into Lower Devils Canyon

Luke looking down into Lower Devils Canyon

Pinal Mtns from the road in...

Pinal Mtns from the road in...

The road in when the going was a bit slick.

The road in when the going was a bit slick.

Awe inspiring tower in Devil's Canyon south of Hackberry Creek

Awe inspiring tower in Devil's Canyon south of Hac...

Establishing a new line in Devil's Canyon south of Hackberry Creek

Establishing a new line in Devil's Canyon south of...


Comments on Lower Devil's Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2012
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2009

Lower Devil's Canyon has some of the best climbing in the Phoenix area and should not be missed! Driving time to this area is about an hour, and the approach from the 2WD parking area is only about 30 minutes. For those with 4WD, you can park right next to it.

For those of you who have Google Earth, I put together a map showing the road in to LD along with the 2WD and 4WD parking spots.

The google earth file can be downloaded from www.geir.com/googleearth/queencreek/

Once in this file, simply click on the file you want and select "open" from the window that appears. Follow the prompts from there and the road will display in Google Earth on your computer.

It works well, but I'm still learning to streamline the process of downloading the file so bear with me as I learn. :)


Google Earth can be downloaded for free at www.googleearth.com

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 25, 2009

Please help keep LD clean and PACK OUT YOUR TRASH, INCLUDING TP.
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2009

That goes for all areas. Please, folks, burn your TP or pack it out. Few things are as disgusting as soiled TP laying all over the place.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Dec 25, 2009

I just completed my first trip to QC, over christmas. Due to my limited time in the area I knew I had to check out the Lower Devil's Canyon area. I was worried about my car being a 2WD and making it down there be we totally rocked it out. The directions on this page were right on the money and really all you need. The guide book illustrations in the QC book were also helpful, but it could definitely be done without it. Note: my car is a nissan Xterra so we had great ground clearance, but actual 4wd is unneccesary, although RWD with a V6 was probably helpful on the hills. Don't be afraid if you have decent ground clearance, NOT TO BE MISSED! The webbing is kinda ridiculous though....

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 26, 2009

Glad you liked it, Kyle! If you climb trad, make sure to check out the east side next time.

By manuel rangel
Jan 24, 2010

Anyone know who finished Route #20 in the Karabin foldout guide to LDC? It is listed as a project. Marty has no idea who actually finished it. We did it today and found it spicy but ok.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 17, 2010

Was soloing down Hackberry yesterday and had the most magical sighting of a Coati -- the big male came ambling down from Dacite Conspiracy, where I was heading, dug up ants from a rotten cactus, free soloed his way down a 20 ft cliff, and snuffled around the creek in search of munchies. Keep your eyes open down there for such a wonderful view!

By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 7, 2011

At the bottom of the hill instead of turning left to head to hackberry creek we turned right. What is this area called? Does it have established routes? Any info would be helpful thanks.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 25, 2011

Ryan,
If you turn right at the base of the switchbacks you'll head up into a new area that we've (Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson) been developing. We've now posted most of the routes and called this area "The Refuge." There are about 60 climbs up in this area and we hope you check them out.
Arjun

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 2, 2012

A heads up that the steep switchbacks have been eroded and gullied significantly by the summer rains. They aren't nearly as bad as they have been in the past, but are much worse than they were when the mine was maintaining them more regularly. Was happy to have 4WD getting back up them.

By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Oct 7, 2012

Good news, the road looks like it was graded all the way to the Hackberry parking spot this week. The switchbacks and the rest of the road is in some of the best shape it has ever been.