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Lower Devil's Canyon

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Lower Devil's Canyon  


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 18, 2006
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Looking across Lower Devil's Canyon at the Glitter...

Description 

Despite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach.

Getting There 

Take the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.6 miles from here

235 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',86],['2 Stars',108],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',18],['5.8',35],['5.9',54],['5.10',90],['5.11',20],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Devil's Canyon:
Easy Street   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Hackberry Creek
Smokin' The Toad   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Hackberry Creek
Going Out Of Chicken Sale   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
El Throatchoker Grande   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Dacite Conspiracy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Hackberry Creek
Accelerated Climbology   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area
Hidden Splendor   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   Glitter Box Area
The Fruits of Optomisim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Totem-Proto Area
The Shmotem Pole   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Pathological Optimist   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Totem-Proto Area
Totem Pole Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Totem-Proto Area
Damsels in Distress   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Glitter Box Area
Centipede Corner   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 110'   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Octabulgey   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Torch : The Bulges
The Totem Pole   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Totem-Proto Area
Eyes of the World   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Glitter Box Area
High Man on the Shmotem Pole   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Gabriel's Watch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Godhead South : The Face of God
Live and Let Dyno   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Torch : The Torch
Double Fault   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Faulty Towers : The Towers
Browse More Classics in Lower Devil's Canyon

Featured Route For Lower Devil's Canyon
Mike Dudley on the FA!

High Man on the Shmotem Pole 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Shmotem Pole
Arete climbing at its finest, and it just keeps going and going. Follows the prominent arete on the right side of the Shmotem Pole from base to summit. Well protected, yet with enough space between the bolts to keep your attention. The first pitch ends on a ledge 15 feet to the right of the second belay on The Shmotem Pole. The second pitch is still a project and will probably go at about 5.12-.UPDATE: This pitch is now considered an open project. However, there may still be a couple bolt hanger...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Lower Devil's Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
green-throated kettle owl
green-throated kettle owl
The road in when the going was a bit slick.
The road in when the going was a bit slick.
Looking out to East Lower Devils
Looking out to East Lower Devils
This used to be one of the worst parts of the road to Lower Devil's Canyon. Not to be taken for granted though; I wouldn't count on it being this nice for too long!
This used to be one of the worst parts of the road...
Luke looking down into Lower Devils Canyon
Luke looking down into Lower Devils Canyon
View of Lower Devils from LDE
View of Lower Devils from LDE
It's a different world at the base of the ravine on your approach to the far side of the LDC
It's a different world at the base of the ravine o...
Hackberry Creek in Lower Devils
Hackberry Creek in Lower Devils
Nestor rappelling after getting up #20 Project route.
Nestor rappelling after getting up #20 Proje...
 Lower Devils Canyon
Lower Devils Canyon
Awe inspiring tower in Devil's Canyon south of Hackberry Creek
Awe inspiring tower in Devil's Canyon south of Hac...
Pinal Mtns from the road in...
Pinal Mtns from the road in...
Such a gorgeous mid-May day that we were both in jackets after this post-Damsels in Distress lunch break!
Such a gorgeous mid-May day that we were both in j...
The magical glen that you go through to get to the far northern area -- "Two Bit Shuffle" and "Summer Assault" and then the climb up to Lions Den via "Trickle and Resin".
The magical glen that you go through to get to the...
Establishing a new line in Devil's Canyon south of Hackberry Creek
Establishing a new line in Devil's Canyon south of...

Comments on Lower Devil's Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 6, 2014
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2009
Lower Devil's Canyon has some of the best climbing in the Phoenix area and should not be missed! Driving time to this area is about an hour, and the approach from the 2WD parking area is only about 30 minutes. For those with 4WD, you can park right next to it.

For those of you who have Google Earth, I put together a map showing the road in to LD along with the 2WD and 4WD parking spots.

The google earth file can be downloaded from geir.com/googleearth/queencree...

Once in this file, simply click on the file you want and select "open" from the window that appears. Follow the prompts from there and the road will display in Google Earth on your computer.

It works well, but I'm still learning to streamline the process of downloading the file so bear with me as I learn. :)


Google Earth can be downloaded for free at googleearth.com
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2009
That goes for all areas. Please, folks, burn your TP or pack it out. Few things are as disgusting as soiled TP laying all over the place.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Dec 25, 2009
I just completed my first trip to QC, over christmas. Due to my limited time in the area I knew I had to check out the Lower Devil's Canyon area. I was worried about my car being a 2WD and making it down there be we totally rocked it out. The directions on this page were right on the money and really all you need. The guide book illustrations in the QC book were also helpful, but it could definitely be done without it. Note: my car is a nissan Xterra so we had great ground clearance, but actual 4wd is unneccesary, although RWD with a V6 was probably helpful on the hills. Don't be afraid if you have decent ground clearance, NOT TO BE MISSED! The webbing is kinda ridiculous though....
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 26, 2009
Glad you liked it, Kyle! If you climb trad, make sure to check out the east side next time.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 24, 2010
Anyone know who finished Route #20 in the Karabin foldout guide to LDC? It is listed as a project. Marty has no idea who actually finished it. We did it today and found it spicy but ok.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 17, 2010
Was soloing down Hackberry yesterday and had the most magical sighting of a Coati -- the big male came ambling down from Dacite Conspiracy, where I was heading, dug up ants from a rotten cactus, free soloed his way down a 20 ft cliff, and snuffled around the creek in search of munchies. Keep your eyes open down there for such a wonderful view!
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 7, 2011
At the bottom of the hill instead of turning left to head to hackberry creek we turned right. What is this area called? Does it have established routes? Any info would be helpful thanks.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 25, 2011
Ryan,
If you turn right at the base of the switchbacks you'll head up into a new area that we've (Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson) been developing. We've now posted most of the routes and called this area "The Refuge." There are about 60 climbs up in this area and we hope you check them out.
Arjun
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 2, 2012
A heads up that the steep switchbacks have been eroded and gullied significantly by the summer rains. They aren't nearly as bad as they have been in the past, but are much worse than they were when the mine was maintaining them more regularly. Was happy to have 4WD getting back up them.
By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Oct 7, 2012
Good news, the road looks like it was graded all the way to the Hackberry parking spot this week. The switchbacks and the rest of the road is in some of the best shape it has ever been.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 22, 2013
Road graded nicely to the first rise where the mining trucks turn left, but after that it's definitely feeling the absence of mining activity. The switchbacks are heading back to their bad state pre a few years ago. High clearance key and 4WD makes it a hell of a lot easier.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Mar 6, 2014
As of about 3/1/14 the roads are in worse shape. The last section of road up to the saddle from the hackberry creek drainage is about the same, but now the road down the switchbacks is nearly as bad. About 1.5 inches of rain around the 1st worsened the damage caused by the big fall of '13 storms. We made it in and out with a stock Tacoma, but I had to lock the diffy. On the plus side, zero crowds...