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L to R R to L Alpha
Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.
Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lower Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buttress:
Farce 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
For Real Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
The Groove 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 475'
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Jailbreak (variation) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Blue Wind 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Hemorroids in Flight 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 150'
Sinbad-Herbert 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Black Pyre 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Black Magic 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 160'
Pillar of Society 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Lower Buttress
Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress
This excellent route ascends the entire length of the Lower Buttress, bringing you up out of the giant forest below and high enough so you think you're way the hell up. Then you top out, and realize that the main wall of Lover's Leap hovers over you, and that you're a mere peon in between the giant walls of horizontal dykes. For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches. Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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