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Lower Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His ArÍte T 
Beer Can Direct S 
Black Magic T 
Black Opal T 
Black Pyre T 
Blue Wind T 
Crown Royal T 
Farce T 
For Real Crack T 
Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Unknown TR 
Wild Turkey T 

Lower Buttress  

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Location: 38.8004, -120.137 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 69,000
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 4, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.

One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.

All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.

Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.

Getting There 

Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.

From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buttress:
Farce   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
For Real Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Surrealistic Pillar   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 270'   
The Groove   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 475'   
Surrealistic Pillar Direct   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Jailbreak (variation)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Blue Wind   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hemorroids in Flight   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 150'   
Sinbad-Herbert   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Black Pyre   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Black Magic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 160'   
Pillar of Society   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Buttress

Featured Route For Lower Buttress
A good pitch to run laps on, when there are no cro...

Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress
This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right. Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Lower Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and rig...
BETA PHOTO: The base of The Lower Buttress, looking up and rig...
Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lowe...
Neal Archambault on 'Beer Can Direct', 5.11a, Lowe...

Comments on Lower Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 9, 2013
So I came to Lower Buttress the other day to try some routes at LL for the first time, and while waiting for some parties to finish the classics decided to try A Boy and His Arete. This thing is definitely not 10d and probably best not to call a sport route. A few rock scars indicated that crucial holds may have broken and the 10-15 foot spacing of bolts and distance to the first bolt kept it spicy. I managed to get up about 5 or 6 bolts before deciding to lower. Just a heads up to anyone thinking there's a moderate sport route here...
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