L to R R to L Alpha
Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.
Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.
18 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lower Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buttress:
Farce 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
For Real Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
The Groove 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 475'
Wild Turkey 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Blue Wind 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Hemorroids in Flight 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 150'
Black Opal 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Sinbad-Herbert 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Variation 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Beer Can Direct 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Black Pyre 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Black Magic 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 160'
Pillar of Society 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Lower Buttress
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress
This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right. Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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