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Elevation: 5,235 ft
GPS: 39.10632, -110.67139
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
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Description Suggest change

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There Suggest change

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes include all climbing from the petroglyph panel to the San Rafael River.

85 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lower Buckhorn Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Buckhorn

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● Buxxcrack Buttress Crack
Sport
Buxxcrack Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 192
● Private Pizza
Trad
Private Pizza Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1
 59
● James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Red Corner
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 88
● Cheek Full of Chaw
Trad
Private Pizza Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
● Jamison Engineering
Trad
Chocolate Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 95
● Old Bushmills
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 74
● Anchors From Hell
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 43
● Lite Not Solid
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
● Short Stack
Trad
Chocolate Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
● Taco Terror
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
● Cryptogramic Forest
Trad 2 pitches
Wisdom Tooth
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
● Mean Weener
Trad
April Fools Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
● Street Legal
Trad
Vertical Smile Wall
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
● BBQ Bomber
Trad
Vertical Smile Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
● Unnamed Sport Climb #1
Sport
Pine Canyon
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Buxxcrack Buttress Crack Buxxcrack Buttress
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Private Pizza Private Pizza Wall
 192
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● James Tower AKA The Lightblub Red Corner
 59
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● Cheek Full of Chaw Private Pizza Wall
 88
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Jamison Engineering Chocolate Wall
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Old Bushmills Pine Canyon
 95
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Anchors From Hell Pine Canyon
 74
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Lite Not Solid Pine Canyon
 43
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Short Stack Chocolate Wall
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Taco Terror Pine Canyon
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Cryptogramic Forest Wisdom Tooth
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Mean Weener April Fools Wall
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Street Legal Vertical Smile Wall
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
● BBQ Bomber Vertical Smile Wall
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
● Unnamed Sport Climb #1 Pine Canyon
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Buckhorn »

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Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on Haagenschlong.
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