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Lower Buckhorn Wash

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Echoes 
Flapjack Tower T 
Fools Paradise T 
Groovin' at the Beach T 
Haagenschlong 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
Jamison Engineering T 
Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
Short Stack T 
Whale, The T 
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 

Lower Buckhorn Wash  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002
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Mark Owen climbing fixed lines on pitch 1.

Description 

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.

Climbing Season



Weather station 20.5 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Haagenschlong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1-     Aid, 3 pitches   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Short Stack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
The route in it's entirety.

Short Stack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002
Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge