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There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.
Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1- Aid, 3 pitches
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'
Jamison Engineering 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Short Stack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Local Information for Lower Buckhorn Wash