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VD (Very Direct) Wall
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Arched Demon 
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Lower Bolt Route 
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Unsorted Routes:

Lower Bolt Route 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: MisterE on Apr 30, 2013
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Erik Wolfe moving through the roof section of Lowe...

Description 

Climb a techy slab to a perplexing crux below a bulge (crux is harder if you are short). Continue through the overlap and onto the steep headwall above. Sustained 5.10 climbing with great variety make this climb outstanding.


Location 

Starts just to the left of "Overhanger".


Protection 

bolts



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By Jeff constine
Apr 30, 2013

Rating is really 10b!!!! and its been that way for 25+ years lol!
Mr E please don't deceive the climbing public with your mis info on a classic route..It's not sustained in anyway what so ever.. Rest after every move, like no hands rests..I know, I rebolted that route..
If you think that route is rad, Stay away from, Lucifers Tooth 11c/d or Prince of Liers 11d or Rupert The Bear 11d or Arch Deamon11d/12a Or Be Rad do them ON SITE with out previewing or top roping first.

I have been climbing/putting up routes at the PB for over 25 years, done every route in the park except for the 13b in the PB proper which was bolted poorly.

PS Illegal to bolt at PB (No new routes allowed) Rangers will take your gun..only Repair bolting. At this time I am the only one allowed to do repairs. Just ask Ranger Dave Numer Johnathan Numer..My good friends..

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
May 1, 2013

Made 7 or 8 trips to the PB back when I lived in the Pasadena area. My introduction came in 1983 when I tagged along for the FA of "Velcro."

I lead the "Lower Bolt Route" a couple of times and if I remember correctly the loose consensus was a 'c' move either at, or just above the overlap? It's been 25 years so I could be wrong about the crux locale and the grade, Jeff.

I introduced a friend to the area in the mid/late 80s who eventually established "No Philosophy" and "Rupert The Bear;" worthy routes by PB standards.

In any event, nice to see the PB getting chatted-up a bit. On short notice/short leash, it's an "ok" experience for busy Angelinos.



By Jeff constine
May 3, 2013

Would this be Mr Ball who took you around? the Brit..

No Philosophy needs to be rebolted ASAP...I am working on it..

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
May 3, 2013

"Would this be Mr Ball who took you around? the Brit.. "

I made a couple of outings with Dick Olsen and Dennis Clark in 83. This was my introduction to the area.

If memory serves (which it rarely does anymore), Mr. Ball and I shared our first PB experience in 86, maybe?

I would imagine a lot that hardware needs replacing. Kudos for your efforts Jeff. Maybe as you find time you can flesh-out some historical route data on the Punchbowl proper. It was my understanding that Dennis was planning a guidebook back in the day. To my knowledge it was never completed or published.

By MisterE
From: Los Angeles, for now
May 8, 2013

Mr E please don't deceive the climbing public with your mis info on a classic route..

Just reporting what is in the book, Jeff.

By Maidy
May 8, 2013

  • sigh*

Not sure how a favorable route review of a classic got trurned around into a spew-fest. We simply agreed with the current grade consensus. Jeff, since you are the leading expert on this area... I'd suggest updating the route data yourself if you have strong opinions about description and ratings. Leave it blank and it's open to subjective interpretation.

Regardless... It's a great route.

Take a chill pill Jeff. No one is bolting anything at Punchbowl. We're happy to donate bolts/hangars for your maitenence efforts. Punchbowl needs some love so let's loose the hate and move forward.

By Jeff constine
May 13, 2013

Troy Mayr, The Big Guide Book Writer Has Never Climbed That Route EVER..OR EL CAP or Astroman or...
So how could he get the correct answer. only just asking someone?
Just like most guide book writers, who don't climb all the routes they list, and just go on hear say, then just publish it!! Yea you are gonna get False Info in the book.

Just like Lower Bolt Route Rating is wrong..


New Guides, I know you can't climb them all, if its a huge book with lots of areas (this is the gray area where the mis-information comes in). From word of mouth from the FA party or, later assents by weak or strong climbers. What ever..

Your gonna trust any guide book, NO WAY..
Unless The writer climbs all the routes in any given guide book there will be false info, ALSO Including (A False Image Of Greatness) perceived by the climbing public about the writer/co writers.

I never trust guide books,almost never use them.

Kinda don't like them..
Because they bring in too many people, Cars, Trash and whatever.
Which does more damage than any spray paint and glue at lets say Echo..
We need to keep some of these places low profile

Save The Punch Bowl, its Beautiful and a fragile Climbing area.

Less attention the better. get it off S Topo.

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
May 13, 2013

"We need to keep some of these places low profile.

Save The Punch Bowl, its Beautiful and a fragile Climbing area."

The Devil's Punchbowl: It's seekrit!

Given the easy access and close proximity to a major urban center, were the Punchbowl to become a tramped-out destination area, it's safe to assume this would have occurred at some point in the last half century of route development, Jeff. There are several reasons this hasn't happened, nor is it likely to in the future. The Punchbowl has it's place in the scheme of SoCal climbing, please allow others the "privilege" of enjoying it.

"Less attention the better. get it off S Topo."

At risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, you issue this plea after providing route commentary and submitting a series photos to the area, none of which, as of this writing, have been deleted.

?

By Craig Stevens
From: Ventura, Ca
Aug 1, 2013

The Punchbowl gets a new guy who thinks he is all the shit. This no bolting rule has been in place way before I climbed there. I bolted any time I wanted.

I am glad the place is still getting traffic.

Jeff keep up the work.

Oh BTW, called Dennis 25 years ago out of the blue to talk about PB. He first was shocked then happy to talk.