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Lowe Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George and Jeff Lowe
Page Views: 15,432
Submitted By: JFA on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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Another day in paradise. About to begin the fantas...

Description 

The best 5.8 in the cirque, on the left side of the wall. Start in a sweet handcrack in a dihedral and belay on a ledge. The next pitch is a wandering 5.7, as is the last, amazing pitch on the headwall which follows a crack with ample face jugs.

Protection 

One set of stoppers and cams.


Photos of Lowe Route Slideshow Add Photo
local badass christina durtschi styling the lowe r...
local badass christina durtschi styling the lowe r...
Lowe Route
BETA PHOTO: Lowe Route
Lowe Route
Lowe Route
The ultra sweet last pitch of the Lowe Route. Luke...
The ultra sweet last pitch of the Lowe Route. Luke...
Pete's Staircase and Lowe Route
BETA PHOTO: Pete's Staircase and Lowe Route
Pete leading P1 of the Lowe Route.
Pete leading P1 of the Lowe Route.
Upper section of the Lowe Route.
BETA PHOTO: Upper section of the Lowe Route.
Lowe-Ball? No, Lowe bong.  You too can clip this p...
Lowe-Ball? No, Lowe bong. You too can clip this p...
P1 of the Lowe Route.
P1 of the Lowe Route.
Cherie heading up the final, breathtaking pitch of...
Cherie heading up the final, breathtaking pitch of...
the always beautiful christina-be-good enjoying th...
the always beautiful christina-be-good enjoying th...
Lone peak. Question mark wall. Trip report: rjohna...
Lone peak. Question mark wall. Trip report: rjohna...
Aubrey cleaning the last pitch of Lowe Route. This...
Aubrey cleaning the last pitch of Lowe Route. This...

Comments on Lowe Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 23, 2014
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 30, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome climb - best route I've done in the Wasatch.

Pitch 1 starts well up and right of the rap anchor on Pete's Staircase. If you are using a rope on Pete's Staircase, it is probably best to belay at the first rap anchor and then again at the base of the dihedral. The dihedral pitch is amazing.

Pitch 2 is weird and traverses a lot. It is very easy to belay too low, and if you do I'm not at all sure you can make it to the top of pitch 3 with a 60 meter rope. Don't be tempted to belay at the first good ledge with a steep crack above it. Climb the crack for another 30 feet to another good ledge.

Pitch 3 is unreal. Fairly runout, but the chickenheads keep it comfortable. Very long and the features just keep coming until the spectacular topout. This is one of the best pitches I have ever done, anywhere.
By vincent pierce
Sep 21, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A total classic! The dihedral is beyond fun with totally solid hand and foot jams and the last pitch is a dream of patina with INSANE exposure! The final pitch really protects quite well, however, the climbing is so fun and easy that, before you know it you may be twenty feet past yr last piece. The only bummer is,of course, the approach. But hey, it is a character building experience.I did this as a day trip which I really regret. The extra gear for an overnighter would be well worth it in my opinion. Once you are up there, you will not want to leave.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 26, 2007

I guess I always knew the Lowe route was the most popular in the cirque, but this last weekend the large majority of the people coming up were there ONLY for the Lowe route. I can't imagine doing that hike for 3 pitches of climbing. They are some pretty awesome pitches though. The last pitch really is as good as everyone says, patina that comes right out of a dream.
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with all of the above. The first pitch is a great crack with bomber hand jams. Really fun.
For some reason I remembered the second pitch as being easier, but the second time around it felt like a solid 5.7, especially the crack leading up to the belay for the 3rd pitch.
What can I say about the last pitch? Leading it is a sweet experience. I found it a little hard to protect and as a result, ran it out until there was a place to put pro. But the holds are so good that it wasn't too scary. Just don't look down too often!
By Eric Fiedler
Aug 8, 2011

Just wanted to add that it is possible to do the 3rd pitch from the lower belay ledge with a 60m rope. We did it this weekend while waiting for a party that was still at the normal belay ledge and had plenty of cord. If you stop here to wait for a group or simply by accident, you don't need to make this into a four pitch climb.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2011

Great climb. Pitch 1 is really cool with a 2 pin anchor on top of the pillar that can be backed up with hand sized gear. Pitch 2 is a bit confusing, here are some landmarks to keep you on track: Obvious thin hands crack to a short traverse on ledges to the huge bong piton. Head up and you should see a bolt above you(you won't use it as it is not on route) where you begin to traverse back right. After traversing right you should spot the big grassy ledge above you. Do one more left then right and this will land you on this big ledge, with a good vertical crack for a belay. I recommend stopping here rather than continuing as this belay is much more comfortable and has more convenient gear then 30 feet higher on the 2nd ledge, though this makes pitch 3 longer and you can't see the climber for most of it, so take that into consideration. It is about 15 feet off the 2nd ledge to your first piece of pro but after that gear occurs pretty regularly through the patina.
By Courtney Pace
Mar 3, 2012

There is a short traverse out right at the start of pitch 3. I would not have recognized this if my buddy hadn;t done the route before. You can only get gear way out right. So find your longest sling or wait til you get higher and try not to factor 2 onto your belay. Third pitch is amazing! A must do warm-up for any trip to the cirque
By Ryan202
From: West Jordan, UT
Jul 2, 2013

I think it is a good intro to the cirque since it's short enough and easy enough to get to. That first pitch (5.8 dihedral) is pretty short. The second pitch zig-zagged on ledgey stuff most of the way. To get to it, find the top rap station on Pete's Staircase. You're kind of in a left facing corner. Climb that corner (thin flakes forming wide cracks) and mantle up on top to that nice ledge with slings on two pitons. Peek over the block and there's another nice ledge at the base of the dihedral pitch. You could belay from the tp rap station on Pete's Staircase since the first pitch is short, but you may get rope drag. From the top rap station, you probably could go down and around climber's right so you don't have to climb those flakes (didn't seem like good pro - I didn't place any).
By Mike Marmar
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An excellent variation is to substitute the second pitch of The Answer. This gives you an extra pitch of amazing 5.8 patina pulling. It's super easy to link back to the last pitch of the Lowe Route, simply head straight up the incipient crack after traversing right off the belay around the overhang.
By Mike Sullivan
From: Durango, CO
Sep 23, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not only the best 5.8 in the Cirque, I'd go so far as to call it the best 5.8 in Utah, and maybe in North America. Ultra Classic moves on perfect rock in a spectacular setting. This route epitomizes why I love alpine climbing.