Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Firehouse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2nd Leftmost of Left of Right T 
East of The West, The T 
Eastern Xpansion S 
Feel the Pressure S 
Firehouse Pillar T 
Lowe Angle T,S 
Lowe Gravity Day T 
Lowe Pressure T 
Meat Puppets 
Modus Operandi 
Rehab 
Silver Tongued Devil 
Unknown?  
West Corner T,TR 
West of The East, The T 

Lowe Gravity Day 

WI4-5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch
Consensus: WI4-5 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 2,124
Submitted By: Chris Zeller on Jan 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brent Roaten enjoying excellent conditions.

Description 

This climb is actually two climbs separated by rock. Each climb has many variations depending upon conditions. Because of the variety of routes on this climb, I believe a range of grades is more accurate than the WI4 rating listed in the Roberts book. The left-most climb forms in a steep 70 degree slab interrupted by bulges. The right-most climb is more varied and forms into a steep pillar, curtains and caves depending upon the conditions. The left side follows some technical gently overhanging ice through a narrow cave and up to some lower angle ~65 degree ice. The middle follows up a steep vertical step ~20 feet high to a small ledge. From here, there are two choices. Move left onto another vertical pillar for more, steep, chandeliered climbing to the top (this may not be formed all the way to the ledge. In this case, climb the rock and move onto the hanging icicles). Alternately, for a moderate finish, move right above the ledge onto the ~65 degree ice and climb to the top.

Descent: Rappel slings and rap rings from trees at the top. There are separate anchors for the slab on the left and the pillar on the right.

Protection 

Screws, the ice is usually thick enough to take long screws.

Toprope Protection 

There are good anchors on top consisting of several fixed slings and rap rings around a large tree. An additional ~10 foot sling and a biner for a backup is a good idea. One 60m rope is sufficient.


Photos of Lowe Gravity Day Slideshow Add Photo
Jimmy Hock at top of lower curtain.
Jimmy Hock at top of lower curtain.
Climber hooking her way up to pillar.
Climber hooking her way up to pillar.
Start on right vertical section of "left of r...
Start on right vertical section of "left of r...
Chris heading behind the pillar on 02/26/09.
Chris heading behind the pillar on 02/26/09.
Move out onto rock traverse.
Move out onto rock traverse.
Pull onto upper Lowe Gravity Day.
Pull onto upper Lowe Gravity Day.
Back onto ice, upper left of Lowe Gravity Day.
Back onto ice, upper left of Lowe Gravity Day.
Trevor Nydam cruising the WI5 pillar on Lowe Gravi...
Trevor Nydam cruising the WI5 pillar on Lowe Gravi...
Sneak behind pillar.
Sneak behind pillar.
Chris Breed on 2/26/09.
Chris Breed on 2/26/09.

Comments on Lowe Gravity Day Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2002

On Lowe Gravity Day, the anchors directly over the climb are looking a bit sketchy. At the top of the climb an assortment of slings are hanging from some iced up willows and logs. Ignore these and haul yourself over the bushes about 10 feet up. There you will find two bomber bolts with rap rings in a solid block. Use these anchors for a TR or rappel. The bolts are directly over the right hand side slabs. If you want to climb the pillar to the left use the anchors below or a screw only as a directional.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 20, 2004

This is also known as Right of Right. There is also a way to traverse in from the climb to the Left via a short rock traverse should the ice pillar not touch down.
By Trevor Nydam
Jan 14, 2006

Nice mixed traverse behind the curtain between what I believe is Left of Right and Lowe Gravity Day. Started on the right most vertical section of L of R and moved behind the curtain on to the rock. Thin but solid feet and tool placements are bomber. No rock pro placements. Moved back onto ice behind pillar on left side of LGD. I was lucky to have room to sneak behind and on up to anchors. Good time. WI3+M2?? Pics may help make sense of my description.