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BETA PHOTO: Just entering the crux. Tricky beta!
Start as for Say Cheese
, but instead of going up towards the bush, traverse over with holds at about eye level, then dropping down to the start of T-REX
and Around The Horn
. The crux is just before the starting hold of T-REX
, and involves a hidden undercling, a lot of body tension, and a little luck. Shake out and finish with Around The Horn. There is a harder variation (that I did not do) that continues through some sharp crimps onto the Top Rope Wall. This variation was FA'd in the 90's and goes at solid V5.
On the Top Rope cliff band, about 50 yards down from The Wave Wall. You should see the wall to the right of the trail when heading toward the Trailside Egg.
Pretty low, but you could definitely use a pad at the crux.
By Patrick Peddy
Apr 3, 2010
Harder variation was FA'd by myself in early '90s. I'd call it V5. Pat Peddy