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This is a short, steep lieback on good rock, with easy hand jamming above the roof. The crack will accept wired nuts or tiny cams, but it is very difficult to see into the crack and place gear while leading. Fortunately, it is easy to set up a toprope. This route receives morning sun.
thin gear for the crux; medium size pieces on the hand crack above
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R
This is not 10a by any means. It is much harder than Pitch 3 of El Camino Real (10a layback) and more sustained than On The Road (10c layback). I'd say its at least 10c.
Difficult to protect as mentioned in the description.
Jun 13, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The new guidebook gives this route .10c, marking the initial part ".10" and the roof ".10c". IMO, the initial layback on lead is probably .10d, due in large part to the difficulty in finding solid gear. I wouldn't give the pitch an R, because good gear is available. I think the roof is easier than .10c as well.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
May 22, 2012
I saw a fellow pop from up by the roof and deck on the ledge. Made a horrible hollow sound. He was battered but basically OK.