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The Goose
Routes Sorted
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Arete T 
Batman S 
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 
Duck, Duck, Goose T 
East Face / Goose T 
Golden Goat S 
Loosey Goosey T 
Love's Labor Lost S 
Mother Goose T 
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 
South Arete T 
South Face T 
Sweet and Innocent T 

Love's Labor Lost 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Karen Kuddes, 1989
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Ben cranking up Loves Labor Lost, the Goose.

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  • Description 

    Start up on the ramp to the left of Deserted Cities and follow the bolts to the same anchor as Deserted Cities. A few runout sections have cracks for the mentioned pro. Excellent face climbing to a great summit.

    Descent: A single bolt with a ring or traverse 20ft. to double rings. A single 50m rap to ledge then downclimb ledge.

    Protection 

    8 QDs plus a #0.5 and #2.5 Friend to a single bolt anchor. Bring a #4 Friend if you don't feel comfortable with a single bolt.

    Location 

    This is located on the west side of the Goose. Approach via the Fern Canyon trail. There are some sections which are looser on the approach.


    Photos of Love's Labor Lost Slideshow Add Photo
    Fun stuff...
    Fun stuff...
    BETA PHOTO
    Dan Mottinger enjoying a beautiful day with one of the most rewarding views.
    Dan Mottinger enjoying a beautiful day with one of...
    Dan Mottinger on the top of the goose.
    Dan Mottinger on the top of the goose.
    Lovin' it.
    Lovin' it.

    Comments on Love's Labor Lost Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 8, 2002

    Mighty nice picture. Pretty technical. Significantly thinner than its neighbor, Deserted Cities.... What's up with single bolt anchors?
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Mar 8, 2002

    The intent was to traverse out to the double bolt anchors on the right (South). If you look around you can get in some gear close enough to the bolt. These days I'd probably put in two.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jan 27, 2003
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Good climb overall. Note [the] warning about [supplementing] the bolts with gear. I saw the line and mistakenly presumed that it was all bolted, as the [Rossiter] book shows it pretty well evenly spaced. Somewhere about in the middle of the climb I was 25+ feet above gear and only 50' above a pretty good sized ledge. It is X-rated without the gear, you will be looking at a bone-smashing fall from 5.8+ (?) moves just before the next bolt. With pro- no big deal, it would be solid if placed well.
    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    Nov 30, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Cool Route! Fun overhanging start. Definite crux at the second bolt but the whole climb is consistent at .8 or .9. I only took a #1 and #2 Camalot on this climb (in addition to the draws). I plugged the #1 in the first horizontal crack (between bolts 3 and 4, I think) but the #2 was too small for the next placement (a #3.5 Camalot maybe??) so it was pretty run-out to the next bolt. As Tony says, no gear would be X rated with a possible decker.
    By Luke Clarke
    From: Golden
    Oct 17, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A new #4 Camalot (about the same as the old 3.5) goes in nicely in a horizontal and a shoulder length sling lined up the rope with the bolts. Quality pitch.