Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure is in place at the center of the wall starting April 1 to September 30. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This area is an excellent 250 - 500 foot chunk of mostly vertical granite containing hundreds of horizontal dikes. The resulting climbing is primarily traditional, but has a air of safety because there are rests every few feet. Most of the climbing here is traditional, and you will find about 150 routes that range from bouldering to 4 pitches. Some routes are sport, but most of the sport climbing is .11 or so, as the abundance of easier traditional routes discourages some excellent sport face climbing. All of the routes demand less than 20 minutes to "hike" into, as the entrance path is part of the pioneer trail, and therefore excellently maintained and quite wide. Once you veer off the trail towards the rock things get steep, but are surprisingly easy on the way up.
You can camp at the campground at the entrance to the pioneer trail at the main parking lot, about 1/5 - 2/3 of a mile from all climbs.
Conveniently located at the edge of the campground are a few large boulders worth doing. From the parking lot, head uphill and cross over the small foot bridge to the Pony Express Trail. Hang a left, and walk up the gently sloped trail for about 3 minutes.
Almost all multipitch routes are best to walk off, both for the preservation of existing vegetation, and that most routes don't have any fixed protection at the top of the rock due to the abundance of trees, cracks, and large rocks at the top.
You can get pretty good food at the Strawberry Lodge, when it's open.
From the Bay Area / Sacramento: Head East on highway 50 towards Placerville. Continue past Placerville to the town of Strawberry, which is approximately 8 miles past the more marked Kyburz. Turn off the freeway onto the small route that parallels the 50 just on the far side of the Strawberry lodge, which is hard to miss on your right. This is about 40 miles past Placerville. You get a good glimpse of the west and main walls as you get close to the Lodge on a clear day.
From Lake Tahoe: Head 18 miles West on Highway 50 to the town of Strawberry, where you should head a left just before the Strawberry Lodge, which will approach on your left after a magnificent view of Lover's Leap looming to the left on the way to the lodge.
From the Strawberry Lodge: Follow the road that Parallels the 50. At the junction, head left, and travel through the small neighborhood quietly and slowly, as advised by local signs. You will run directly into the parking lot about 1/3 mile later.
1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay.2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. 3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay.4) Wander to the top.I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Will be passing through next weekend (2/15) and I was hoping for some beta on the climbing conditions at the Leap. Is there snow/runoff from recent rains? Thanks to anyone who's local and who can answer these questions!
I second that area as optional camping. If you want to see something really special, continue up the road to Wright's Lake at the top. Quite a nice place for breakfast if the view of the spires wasn't good enough ~(-:
So it appears that Lovers Leap has a NW aspect. Am I seeing this right? Just trying to figure out what kind of shade it might receive at what times of day? I'm here visiting in Reno for a couple weeks, and it's 100 degree weather here. Will the Leap be too hot? Any recommendations are appreciated.
By Salamanizer Administrator From: Vacaville Ca. Jul 29, 2009
The Leap has lots of shade. Usually when the temps are in the 100's in Reno or the Central Valley the Leap stays at a decent 80-85 degrees. There is an occasional heat wave that may make it a bit warm but that's the exception. Should be nice, lots of shade.... Go!
Easy there... the Lodge is a great resource for climbers and worthy of our support. The food has indeed varied in quality over the years. I wouldn't describe it as terrific, but it currently is decent and reasonably priced.
Not mentioned in the Super Topo or anywhere else I could find is that Strawberry Station, across the street from Strawberry Lodge, carries a small but comprehensive supply of climbing gear (along with some camping/hiking gear and groceries). It's much more convenient than having to head into South Lake Tahoe to go to Sports LTD.