|Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
This small crag, visible from the Windy Saddle parking lot, sits in the forest above Clear Creek. Climbers who brave the long approach are rewarded with a clean, steep slab that gets morning sun and evening shade. The routes are still a bit green, but with traffic they'll clean up nicely. With its close proximity to the Beaver Brook trail, I wasn't too surprised to learn the crag had a historic name... Lover's Leap, of course.
From the Windy Saddle parking lot on Lookout Mountain, hike out the Lookout Mountain trail to the Beaver Brook trail 0.2 miles. Hike an additional 1.6 miles to the summit of the crag (just past the "B/B 1.5 sign"). To reach the base, hike past the summit and on down the trail to a faint switchback, climbers' trail, that leaves the main trail on the right and heads back to the bottom of the crag. Expect to take ~40 minutes.
Eds. Note that the speed limit is 20 mph on Lookout Mountain Rd, and the police do patrol there.
Also, there are rattlesnakes on the trail at times here.
A. BB Gun, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
B1. BB King, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
B2. BB Brain, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Unknown, 11?, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Black And Blue, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E1. Doug's Variation, 10-, 1p, 50', TR.
E2. Bed And Breakfast, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
F. ABBA, 8 PG-13 or R, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
G. Butt Over Buttress, 10+, 1p, 45', TR.
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook:
BB Brain 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
BB King 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
BB Gun 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
Local Information for Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Looking from SW down on the crag from atop the roc...
Doug's Variation. Happy 58th!
The view from the trail atop Lover's Leap.
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 15, 2010
Nice crag and good work, Kirk. Pretty steep and consistent face climbing with enough small features to keep it moderate but make you think. A bit mossy since it's virgin rock, but it will clean up once the word gets out. Sheltered SE exposure and a 30-minute hike from the road.
|By Mike Morin|
From: On the Road
Oct 19, 2010
High quality crag, fun routes.
|By Alex A|
May 5, 2011
Some more fun Kirt Miller routes, nice job Kirt, nice hike, will take about 35 to 45 minutes to get there.
From: Superior, CO
May 5, 2011
A fun set of 3 climbs that are well bolted. 5.9 is my limit and I was comfortable leading (and falling on) BB Gun and would have been comfortable on the others. Next time maybe I can skip the falling part.
|By Andrew S.|
Jul 6, 2011
Climbed these with Mr. Kirk Miller today. Couldn't have asked for a better partner, climbs, atmosphere. Great routes, can't wait to do Ugly Stick.
|By Legs Magillicutty|
Sep 12, 2011
Nice job, Kirk. The base of the climb could use a little trail work. It was difficult to not knock dirt and rocks down on the party belaying on the rightmost route. If you need help, I'm volunteering.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
There was a little rattler on the trail probably ~0.5 mile from the parking lot today.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Dec 6, 2012
This is a good crag but a little far away for the average sport climber that does not like walking.
|By Chick on Crack|
From: Golden, CO
May 20, 2014
Fun climbs, peaceful area. My partner and I leveled the dirt for a more secure belay stance at the top of the crag. We plan to bring shovels next time and secure rock for safer stances. I did slip upon lowering him; fortunately, I was using a Grigri.
Thanks to everyone who bolted the routes...awesome bolt placement, and it was easy to set a TR from the far left route to the center route.
The rock offers unique movement & technique and routes can be climbed in several variations, making this tiny area worth the hike.
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jun 2, 2014
I love this peaceful little crag: every line that I've climbed is of very high quality.
Word of caution: yahoos like to hike out here and throw their beer bottles at the crag from the top. So not only is broken glass very common at the belay (watch your rope), the last time we also found broken glass in some of the jugs at the anchors. Be cautious what you grab in a deep hold: you could get a nasty cut.
|By Parker Wrozek|
2 days ago
Well worth the hike out here. Had it all to ourselves from 9-1 on a Saturday morning. The climbs are good fun and well bolted. BB King is the best route of the 9s.
The belay area for BB Gun could really use some work/erosion protection, it is hard to find a good lead belay stance.
Be careful with people throwing rocks and whatever else off the cliff. My belayer was almost taken out by someone....
Also on the hike out at the fork, it is the middle trail, not the one down the hill to the right or the u-turn up the hill.