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Central Wall
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Bookmark T 
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Hourglass, The T 
Lover's Chimney T 
Roofer Madness T 

Lover's Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Cooke, 1949
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: snowhazed on Aug 8, 2008

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Duke enters the cave

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun, easy, protected chimney climbing inside a cave with the occasional window to look out of. Awesome when it's hot.

P1- 5.6 thrutchy OW with good gear to cave

P2- Chimney to the top- exit left to ledge

P3- 5.fun to the top

Location 

Center Wall left of Bookmark. The cave is pretty obvious- there is a bolted arete climb just left of the start

Protection 

All natural, standard rack to 3"


Photos of Lover's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the 3rd pitch to the top.
Starting up the 3rd pitch to the top.
Josh looking up into the cave. I think I read about this place in "Heart of Darkness"?
Josh looking up into the cave. I think I read abou...
Chimney Garden!
Chimney Garden!
Looking up into the chimney.
Looking up into the chimney.
Looking at route from base
BETA PHOTO: Looking at route from base

Comments on Lover's Chimney Add Comment
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By Josh Cameron
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A great romp for the warmer days since you'll only be in the sun for the last pitch. A fun climb, but kind of an adventure route.