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Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1 - 2 miles north of Split Rock. Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.
The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead. As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders. The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.
47 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loveland:
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One Armed Giant 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Tiger Rocks
A fantastic exercise in flare and effort. The pro is minimal to scant to get into the initial maw. Once established in the chimney, there is very good pro in the back. There is an immediate exposure factor for the opening moves as this route sits on top of an existing deep chimney. If you fall in the first 10 feet, you go 25ft to some jagged blocks. Cool!More info here: WideFetish.com...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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