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Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1 - 2 miles north of Split Rock. Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.
The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead. As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders. The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loveland:
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Vector 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Vector Rock
Begin at the base of an obvious right-arching crack that narrows to a seam just below the top. Initially the climbing is easy in the hand sized crack but quickly becomes more demanding as the crack narrows to finger width. The sustained crux section is protected by #00 - #1 TCU's or small stoppers / brass. Technical footwork on thin edges and stamina is necessary to place gear. A committing mantle move (5.10-) out of the seam to the top adds excitement to this J-Tree classic! The des...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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