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Loveland

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Alternate Approach crags 
Beak Boulder 
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Loveland  


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Location: 34.0219, -116.0527 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,584
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 30, 2003
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Description 

Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1 - 2 miles north of Split Rock. Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.

Even though this area is relatively close to Split Rock, the approach to many of the crags involves boulder hopping and/or navigating through desert scrub and cacti on steep terrain. However, many fine routes may be found on crags that require circuitous or cumbersome approaches.

Getting There 

The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead. As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders. The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.


Climbing Season



Weather station 7.7 miles from here

47 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',8],['5.10',25],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loveland:
Totally Tubular   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Beak Boulder
Desert Queen   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Beak Boulder
I Get By With A Little Help From My Friends   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Crocodile Rock
Modern Warfare   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Beak Boulder
Kamikaze Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Beak Boulder
One Armed Giant   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   Tiger Rocks
Vector   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Vector Rock
Throbbing Gristle   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     TR, 50'   Beak Boulder
Browse More Classics in Loveland

Featured Route For Loveland
Approach from the Bond Boulders and Tiger Rocks

Throbbing Gristle 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Beak Boulder
This rig is a true classic and an odd one for Josh. There are no real face holds, knobs, or crumbly edges to help you. It is overhanging, somewhat flared and leaning.The rock is very good at the bottom, to the point of being slick inside the crack. Higher up the rock starts to deteriorate, but alas, I never got there... denied!This route might be the best OW I have seen or tried in Josh.more info here: WideFetish.com...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Loveland Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Loveland. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Upper Loveland. Photo by Blitzo.
Loveland, with the Tiger and Bond boulders on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Loveland, with the Tiger and Bond boulders on the ...
Beak Boulders. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Beak Boulders. Photo by Blitzo.

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