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The New River Wall
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Know Your Enemies  S 
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Love Your Enemies  T,S 
Love Your Inclinations  T,S 
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No More Crucifixions  S 
No More Enemies  S 
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Positive Vibrations  S 
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Public Enemy T,S 
Public Enemy Direct Start S 
Public Execution  S 
Public Inclinations  T,S 
Public Inclinations Direct Start  S 
Public Youth S 
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Than's Problem? 
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Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) 
Unsorted Routes:

Love Your Enemies  

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,146
Submitted By: Brian Kimball on Apr 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>


Climb 3 bolts up the slab, then traverse left and upward to join and finish on Public Enemy.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 27, 2015
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 28, 2011

Nice work, Brian, thanks for all your hard work at The New River Area, it's awesome! Can't wait to get on it!
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I am with Brian, the route felt a little soft to me. It is very much my style though and with out a doubt the best 12b in the canyon.

It also makes a wonderful warm up for climbing on almost anything else at the wall.
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have no clue, dude. Someone altered your bolt???
By Wade
Jun 22, 2011

I did not retro bolt this route, a bolt was pulling out, so I added a extra one, I would have pulled it out, but it wouldn't come loose, I yellow tagged it, so no one would use it. By the description that Brian gave, this route is what I though was Public Enemy. Brian, you can leave the name, I like it. I'd say 12b or c?

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2012

I did this route the same day after finishing Sonic last summer. I was amazed with how good the route was. A little airy and spooky which makes it super fun! It's got a great overhanging traverse on big jugs. The crux is at the very top when the jugs thin out and you have to do some big moves as the pump culminates. Amazing route, thanks for putting it up. This rivals the best 5.12b anywhere, with great climbing, great position on bullet hard beautiful stone. Do it!
By slim
Oct 16, 2012

Agree with Monty. I've seen this happen several times - the nut works its way loose over time and is just hanging on by a thread. Then it pops off when the rope is weighted.
By James D
Mar 27, 2015

Can someone explain the anchors being gone on this route?
It looks like the anchor is gone and the route is extended, and I was wondering how hard the rest of the route is now?
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