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The New River Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Love Your Enemies  

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,887
Submitted By: Brian Kimball on Apr 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb 3 bolts up the slab, then traverse left and upward to join and finish on Public Enemy.

Protection 

Bolts.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2012
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 28, 2011

Nice work, Brian, thanks for all your hard work at The New River Area, it's awesome! Can't wait to get on it!
By K-dub
May 1, 2011

I would not say this is a soft .12b, especially by Clear Creek standards. And definitely super fun!!!
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I am with Brian, the route felt a little soft to me. It is very much my style though and with out a doubt the best 12b in the canyon.

It also makes a wonderful warm up for climbing on almost anything else at the wall.
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have no clue, dude. Someone altered your bolt???
By Wade
Jun 22, 2011

I did not retro bolt this route, a bolt was pulling out, so I added a extra one, I would have pulled it out, but it wouldn't come loose, I yellow tagged it, so no one would use it. By the description that Brian gave, this route is what I though was Public Enemy. Brian, you can leave the name, I like it. I'd say 12b or c?

wader
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2012

I did this route the same day after finishing Sonic last summer. I was amazed with how good the route was. A little airy and spooky which makes it super fun! It's got a great overhanging traverse on big jugs. The crux is at the very top when the jugs thin out and you have to do some big moves as the pump culminates. Amazing route, thanks for putting it up. This rivals the best 5.12b anywhere, with great climbing, great position on bullet hard beautiful stone. Do it!
By Mr. Nick
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I have tried Sonic Youth 2-3 times before this year, and I finally decided to get back and tie up loose ends. While I was over there, I got on this route as a warm-up, and I thought it was fantastic. As far as the grade is concerned, I think it sits somewhere in the 11d-12b range, but I couldn't tell, so hopefully time and repeats will. That aside, I found this to be a great new addition to the New River Wall and that goes for all of the other routes on the wall. When I first saw all the bolts go up, I was expecting some contrived link up a la the Primo Wall, but after getting on this, I was pleasantly surprised. This route has to be one of my new CCC 5.12 favorites. Props to Brian Kimball and all of his work.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 16, 2012

Agree with Monty. I've seen this happen several times - the nut works its way loose over time and is just hanging on by a thread. Then it pops off when the rope is weighted.