Love Your Enemies  

Nice work, Brian, thanks for all your hard work at The New River Area, it's awesome! Can't wait to get on it!

I would not say this is a soft .12b, especially by Clear Creek standards. And definitely super fun!!!

I am with Brian, the route felt a little soft to me. It is very much my style though and with out a doubt the best 12b in the canyon.

It also makes a wonderful warm up for climbing on almost anything else at the wall.

I have no clue, dude. Someone altered your bolt???

I did not retro bolt this route, a bolt was pulling out, so I added a extra one, I would have pulled it out, but it wouldn't come loose, I yellow tagged it, so no one would use it. By the description that Brian gave, this route is what I though was Public Enemy. Brian, you can leave the name, I like it. I'd say 12b or c?

wader

I did this route the same day after finishing Sonic last summer. I was amazed with how good the route was. A little airy and spooky which makes it super fun! It's got a great overhanging traverse on big jugs. The crux is at the very top when the jugs thin out and you have to do some big moves as the pump culminates. Amazing route, thanks for putting it up. This rivals the best 5.12b anywhere, with great climbing, great position on bullet hard beautiful stone. Do it!

I have tried Sonic Youth 2-3 times before this year, and I finally decided to get back and tie up loose ends. While I was over there, I got on this route as a warm-up, and I thought it was fantastic. As far as the grade is concerned, I think it sits somewhere in the 11d-12b range, but I couldn't tell, so hopefully time and repeats will. That aside, I found this to be a great new addition to the New River Wall and that goes for all of the other routes on the wall. When I first saw all the bolts go up, I was expecting some contrived link up a la the Primo Wall, but after getting on this, I was pleasantly surprised. This route has to be one of my new CCC 5.12 favorites. Props to Brian Kimball and all of his work.

Agree with Monty. I've seen this happen several times - the nut works its way loose over time and is just hanging on by a thread. Then it pops off when the rope is weighted.