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World's Greatest Boulder
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Love Shack S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Love Shack 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Sport, Boulder, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Paul Clark, Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Jan 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Crux is right at the start on a one finger hold, then the holds get better. One of the prettiest boulders I've seen. It's all by itself right on the river.

Location 

Sooooper obvious line straight up the middle of the boulder.

Protection 

2 bolts, or solo the thing.


Comments on Love Shack Add Comment
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By Lucas Traner
From: El Lago, Tx
Sep 2, 2013

There is a sit start variation using a hidden hueco down low that adds a few letter grades. Doesn't really add anything fun to the route, jsut mentioning it.
By Matt Twyman
From: Austin, TX
Dec 4, 2014

I have a very dear place in my heart for this line, and encourage the sit start. Adds a few more bouldery moves to better round out the whole sequence. yarding off the crimp rail to the mono and then pulling off that definitely adds a level of expectation to your tendons. Definitely better as a boulder problem, but bring a lot of pads. Your topping out over a block.