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Love Shack Wall

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(0.5) Cayman Nights S 
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl S 
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards S 

Love Shack Wall  


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Location: 19.7215, -79.7584 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 814
Administrators: John Byrnes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009
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Jeff tops out Leapin Lizzards, 11d before walking ...

Description 

Unless you climb really hard, you will find warming up on this wall to be quite challenging, as the easiest route is the steep and dynamic Leapin' Lizzards at 5.11d. So most people warm up at the Stargazer Wall, a one minute walk to the right. Stargazer has high-quality routes at 9+ and 11a.

Climbing here becomes nice in the afternoon, as the sun leaves it between 3 and 3:30 in March.

Getting There 

If staying at the Bluff View house, walk out the door, turn right (west), and walk along the South Side Road for a few minutes until you get to a meadow. If coming from the west, it is 2.7 miles (4.3 km) east of the Ashton Reid Road (aka “Bluff Road”). The crag is obvious from the road: steep white rock with a left-angling crack.

Climbs (Right to Left) 

All routes have Titanium Bolts
(0.5) Cayman Nights 12c
Cayman Daze 13b Open project
(01) Bric-a-brac Crack 12b
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl 12a
(03) Parrot Trooper 12c/d, finger-size dependent
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards 11d/12a, harder for short people

Climbing Season



Weather station 89.7 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Love Shack Wall
Throwin' the Hoola Girl

(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  North America : Cayman Brac : Love Shack Wall
After stick clipping the first bolt, start at the large and sharp hueco and suave through the difficult and technical moves that will get you to a good stance. Fight a pump through overhanging terrain to the difficult to spot holds that will get you over the upper bulge and on easier ground to the anchors. The moves that look easy from the ground are harder than they look, while the moves that look hard are easier than they look....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 30, 2012
This wall is in the sun all day in January, though it's possible to squeeze one more route in when you get back to the Bluff house as the sun sets.