Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Love Shack Wall

Select Route:
(0.5) Cayman Nights S 
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl S 
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards S 

Love Shack Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 19.7215, -79.7584 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 708
Administrators: John Byrnes, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jeff tops out Leapin Lizzards, 11d before walking ...

Description 

Unless you climb really hard, you will find warming up on this wall to be quite challenging, as the easiest route is the steep and dynamic Leapin' Lizzards at 5.11d. So most people warm up at the Stargazer Wall, a one minute walk to the right. Stargazer has high-quality routes at 9+ and 11a.

Climbing here becomes nice in the afternoon area, as the sun leaves it between 3 and 3:30 in March.


Getting There 

If staying at the Bluff View house, walk out the door, turn right (west), and walk along the South Side Road for a few minutes looking for a clearing in the dense brush. If coming from the west side of the island, it is 2.7 miles (4.3 km) east of the Ashton Reid Road (aka “Bluff Road”). The crag is an obvious steep area of white rock with a leftward angling crack that marks the rightmost climb.


Climbs (Right to Left) 

All routes have Titanium Bolts
(0.5) Cayman Nights 12c
Cayman Daze 13b Open project
(01) Bric-a-brac Crack 12b
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl 12a
(03) Parrot Trooper 12c/d, finger-size dependent
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards 11d/12a, harder for short people


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Love Shack Wall

(05) Leapin’ Lizzards 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  North America : Cayman Brac : Love Shack Wall
Stick clip the first bolt and follow the obvious line of massive jugs. A few difficult moves start to the right of the first bolt then the climb continues straight up with massive moves and throws between good holds. As you get closer to the top of the climb the holds get smaller. After clipping the final bolt before the chains (had a rusty leaver beaner on it when I was there, um, why? You can bail directly from any of the bolts here) pull the tooth, and make your way through some thin moves ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Love Shack Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 30, 2012

This wall is in the sun all day in January, though it's possible to squeeze one more route in when you get back to the Bluff house as the sun sets.