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Love Shack Wall

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(0.5) Cayman Nights S 
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl S 
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards S 

Love Shack Wall 


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Location: 19.7215, -79.7584 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 695
Administrators: John Byrnes, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009
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Jeff tops out Leapin Lizzards, 11d before walking ...

Description 

Unless you climb really hard, you will find warming up on this wall to be quite challenging, as the easiest route is the steep and dynamic Leapin' Lizzards at 5.11d. So most people warm up at the Stargazer Wall, a one minute walk to the right. Stargazer has high-quality routes at 9+ and 11a.

Climbing here becomes nice in the afternoon area, as the sun leaves it between 3 and 3:30 in March.


Getting There 

If staying at the Bluff View house, walk out the door, turn right (west), and walk along the South Side Road for a few minutes looking for a clearing in the dense brush. If coming from the west side of the island, it is 2.7 miles (4.3 km) east of the Ashton Reid Road (aka “Bluff Road”). The crag is an obvious steep area of white rock with a leftward angling crack that marks the rightmost climb.


Climbs (Right to Left) 

All routes have Titanium Bolts
(0.5) Cayman Nights 12c
Cayman Daze 13b Open project
(01) Bric-a-brac Crack 12b
(02) Throwin’ the Hoola Girl 12a
(03) Parrot Trooper 12c/d, finger-size dependent
(05) Leapin’ Lizzards 11d/12a, harder for short people


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Love Shack Wall

(0.5) Cayman Nights 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  North America : Cayman Brac : Love Shack Wall
Begin by reaching up to a Caymanite shelf. Pull on and chug through steep pockets to attain some smaller features and an all out jump for an obvious rounded pocket. Pull through good features and two more roofs to a bone white giant sharks tooth and the anchor. Super!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 30, 2012

This wall is in the sun all day in January, though it's possible to squeeze one more route in when you get back to the Bluff house as the sun sets.