BETA PHOTO: 1. Wading Game 2. Happy Entrails 3. Death Grip 4. ...
Short, steep wall in a bend in the river about 5 minutes' walk in past the Gateway area
(on the trail toward The Sponge
). Find it by NOT crossing the first, long wooden-plank bridge across the river, but walking straight for about 50 feet instead, and looking up on your left. The river runs up against the base of the routes as it turns hard right, the climbs take you right over the water. Bolted for stick-clipping first bolt, which you definitely want to do. A fall before clipping would drop you right into shallow, rocky water, and could result in serious injury. I'd also recommend bringing a tarp, 2-3 clamps, and an extra stick clip (or another long, straight pole to span the river), as you'll have to rig a method of keeping your rope out of the water when you pull it between burns. "Is it worth all that trouble?," you may ask. In my opinion, the answer is definitely YES, and then some. If you climb at the mid-5.12 level and like short, bouldery routes, these are some of the best in NM. Also, the natural surroundings are phenomenally beautiful.
Added bonus: The middle two 5.12 routes, Happy Entrails
and Death Grip
, can be climbed in fairly heavy rain as they are steep enough to stay dry. However, the river becomes a bit more of an issue, as it tends to swell when it rains hard.
For many years there were only 2 bolted routes: Happy Entrails
and Death Grip
. Consensus is that the latter is harder by about a letter grade. However, more recent development has added three 5.9s, a couple 5.10s and two 5.12 routes.
See above. 5 min approach along the main riverside trail (the one you take if you're heading to the sponge).
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Love Shack Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Love Shack Area:
Death Grip 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Love Shack Area
Death Grip 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b NM
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : Love Shack Area
A fun powerful route on very unique stone. A bouldery pre-clipped start leads to slopers and pinches. Don't botch the start as even with the first bolt pre-clipped if you fall off too early it is still possible to end up in the stream. Start out on good holds to pull the overhang and get up to the first bolt. OK crimps and a good pocket lead to a pinch and a tricky move getting to the clipping holds for the second bolt. Grab a quick shake here and move up on steeper ground through good pinches a...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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