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Luv Nothing 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 12, 2011

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Description 

Start on a short offwidth corner up to a spider-web filled alcove. this first section has some loose rock. From the alcove, go out a couple little roofs, into the imposing overhanging splitter. Overhanging hands, thin hands, and ringlocks gradually get more vertical, but the climbing stays pretty hard and the crack gets thinner.

Location 

pretty far down.

Protection 

wide pieces and more slings than you think for the bottom. For the splitter, 2 or 3 of everything from a gold down to purple camalot, plus a couple thinner pieces for the top. Bolted anchors.


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By clausti
Jun 13, 2011

re: "first section has loose rock."

to be more explicit- the belayer should wear a helmet. many marble to golf ball sized exfoliation flakes.
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