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The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beds S 
Crank Whore S 
Fashion Victim S 
Love Muffin S 
No Quarter S,TR 
PMS S,TR 
Space Sluts S 
Spread Eagle S 

Love Muffin 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 206
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Oct 13, 2011

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Description 

Good edges lead up to a blank headwall. Clipping the fourth bolt is a bit strenuous. The crux is the blankness guarding the chains, from a poor crimp and a pretty good left hand either dyno or levitate. Very fun route, the anchor is in need of a retrobolt, or maybe just new hangers/ chains.


Location 

The second route from the far right of the cliff, to the right of PMS and the left of Beds, or two bolts lines to the right of Fashion Victim.


Protection 

4 bolts to a terrible 2 bolt anchor, Leeper hangers connected together with some homemade looking cable.



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By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
May 29, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

On May 9, 2014 I replaced the rusty 1st bolt and hanger with a new Powers 3.5" bolt and Fixe hanger. Bolts 2, 3, & 4 are still in good shape and the hangers and nuts have been straitened and tightened. I also replaced the 2 bolt anchor and manky cable with 2 new bolts and hangers and added quick links and leaver 'biners for the lower off.