Love Minus Zero  5.11c R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Roger Briggs & Bill Briggs - 1973 Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jul 1, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Climbers on Love Minus Zero, Eldorado Canyon, phot...

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Love Minus Zero: Two stars if done by itself, subtract a star for the deteriorating rock above the roof, add a star if done as a part of "Roving for Love."

P1: Begin a little ways up and left on the Upper Ramp from the black slot/crack that marks the start of upper T2. Pull up and right at an obvious weakness to gain a crack and pro. Probably 20' of unprotected 5.8 here. Climb upwards for another 20' to gain the obvious finger crack and follow this up and leftwards to a ledge. Belay. The pitch is approximately 100' long.

P2: Traditionally you would traverse off the left margin of the ledge to gain a very shallow left-facing corner with poor gear. A much nicer option is to continue up and left off the ledge in the obvious black hand crack. This leads directly up to the roof. Step left to a flake to establish yourself below the roof and get a no-hands rest. Currently there is a fixed hex and tat under the roof. This can be backed up with a solid red Alien or 0.5 Camalot. Pull the roof. This is very strenuous and requires bringing your feet way up and liebacking in a near-horizontal position before rocking up to a good crack. Felt like one of the most powerful 11c's I've done in Eldo. Once past the roof you traverse left about 10' and then head up chossy rock to a belay niche. Continue up on easy rock or traverse slightly right to a slung horn and make two raps back to the ramp (recommended - bring webbing).

Roving for Love was a great linkup: Roll Over Rover to Rover to Love Minus Zero. Thanks to Steve Levin.

Protection 

SR.