Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Siberia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bull with Gas S 
Bazooka, The T 
Ben Scabbyface T 
Broken Dreams T 
Child Proof T 
Cross-Roads Finish S 
Dos Chi Chis S 
Gandy S 
George's Route (aka Binder) S 
Glen's Crack T 
Hollywood Rattlesnake T 
Irish Toothache S 
Jack T 
Kublai Corner T 
Leon Redbone S 
Love Gas S 
Old Hornington T 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 
Randy T 
Showers With Dad S 
Toby S 
Weo S 
Yasmine Bleeth S 
Unsorted Routes:

Love Gas 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke
Page Views: 2,172
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Love gas

Description 

This is to the right of "A Bull With Gas". Climb the low angle ramp mentioned in the "Bull with Gas" description to the right and up steep plates (5.9), passing a bolt, several fixed pins and seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Face Climbing (5.10a), passes two bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Another short, easy pitch can be done to the summit.
Two bolt rappel anchors on top. A 60 meter rope is mandatory and a 70 meter is better.

Protection 

Lots of draws.


Photos of Love Gas Slideshow Add Photo
Come and get your Love Gas.
Come and get your Love Gas.
Come and get your Love Gas
Come and get your Love Gas
"Love Gas" Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Love Gas" Photo by Blitzo.
Rick coming up P1 of Love Gas.
Rick coming up P1 of Love Gas.
"Love Gas". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Love Gas". Photo by Blitzo.
Love Gas, 5.10a
Love Gas, 5.10a
Tom Burke. The late Tom Burke did many first ascen...
Tom Burke. The late Tom Burke did many first ascen...
Rick starting P2 of Love Gas.
Rick starting P2 of Love Gas.

Comments on Love Gas Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 19, 2008

With any amount of traffic, lots of pieces are going to get pulled off of this one. Might want to give your belayer a hard hat.

The beautiful setting and fantastic views make this climb. Certainly not the rock quality, which is loose and chossy.
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 26, 2009

climbing quality is classic, but be gentle on the loose plates sections so the climb remains for years to come. Pull down not out.
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012

Climbed to the first anchor on 3/30 - can 'third' the comments on loose holds. There are seven bolts and two pins on that pitch. First two bolts and two pins are probably within no more than 15 foot of each other, so you can pretty safely skip the pins.

60m rap off the first anchor puts you about 3-5 feet above the bottom of the ramp. No problem to come off and smear your way down beyond that.

Two fairly well camo'ed bolts above the first belay station. Goes over a lip after though, so no more topo beyond that.