Two of the guides I had with me supplied conflicting information on this route (5.9+ vs. 5.10d). It didn't take me long to figure out which was incorrect. I was already tired from climbing all day and got so pumped that I lost count of my falls, and resorted to a french-free to make up for lost ground. I ended up traversing to the arete to make it to the neighboring route's chains. I'm sorry I can't provide more information than this for this route, but at least I can prevent aspiring 5.9 leaders from getting in way over their heads. Scramble up the left side of the flake/boulder to the 2 belay chains. Take the left bolt line. Enjoy the dirty solution pockets!
Between the Engagement Alcove and Petroglyph Wall, a large flake/boulder sits just right of an arete. The route starts on top of the boulder. Rappel off the 2 chain anchor.
7 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.
Looking down from the top of the 10d.
Kyle finishing the 10d. Man those holds look big ...
|By Brian Koralewski|
From: Springville, Utah
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Definitely a 10d. So many sustained moves in a row without any decent rest. Finally some good holds near the top, but by then your pumped out of your brains. Great climb. However, a few loose small rocks were found and some dirty rocks. I think the belay stance on the boulder keeps this climb unclimbed- shame, such a good climb.