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Love Beads 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Sep 4, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Scramble to the belay chained start for two differ...

Description 

Two of the guides I had with me supplied conflicting information on this route (5.9+ vs. 5.10d). It didn't take me long to figure out which was incorrect. I was already tired from climbing all day and got so pumped that I lost count of my falls, and resorted to a french-free to make up for lost ground. I ended up traversing to the arete to make it to the neighboring route's chains. I'm sorry I can't provide more information than this for this route, but at least I can prevent aspiring 5.9 leaders from getting in way over their heads. Scramble up the left side of the flake/boulder to the 2 belay chains. Take the left bolt line. Enjoy the dirty solution pockets!


Location 

Between the Engagement Alcove and Petroglyph Wall, a large flake/boulder sits just right of an arete. The route starts on top of the boulder. Rappel off the 2 chain anchor.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.



Photos of Love Beads Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of the 10d.
Looking down from the top of the 10d.
Kyle finishing the 10d.  Man those holds look big and juicy.......don't be deceived.
Kyle finishing the 10d. Man those holds look big ...
Comments on Love Beads Add Comment
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By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definitely a 10d. So many sustained moves in a row without any decent rest. Finally some good holds near the top, but by then your pumped out of your brains. Great climb. However, a few loose small rocks were found and some dirty rocks. I think the belay stance on the boulder keeps this climb unclimbed- shame, such a good climb.