From: Morrison, CO
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yeah, there is now a very hard move right at the start, maybe one move after you leave the ledge. I assume this is where the hold broke. The new sequence involves a big dyno from a horrible crimp. This would probably be a 12c move if it were higher on the route, but IMO, since it comes right off the start, I would still vote for 12b, although I'll gladly take the 12c if others disagree :)
If your belayer is not on the ledge, I would highly recommend stick clipping the 1st two bolts, since most people will not on-sight this move. Actually, especially if your belayer is on the ledge, stick clip at least two bolts. Still a great route!