All bouldering, this short rock contains the easiest established route on the Canyon Trail, and also other variations and problems up to V4.
The rock is solid, in the shade, and a great place to hangout in a secluded setting.
While the landing is flat, a spotter is good in case someone attempts to tumble past the landing zone, where the downhill slope would its justice.
All routes top out off the top of the left side, and you can easily walk off the back side of the rock.
Love and Hate (V4) is an excellent scrunchy traverse that runs below the arete of the top of the rock.
Approach time: 8 minutes.
To get to this boulder, drive 3.3 miles up Adobe Canyon Road from highway 12 into the Sugarloaf Ridge State Park to a 8-12 car pullout on your left. Park.
Cross the street and head downhill on the Canyon Trail, which will have a small 3' high sign pointing you in the right direction.
Walk downhill on the windy and gently steep trail past the Canyon Trail Boulder, which will be the obvious 12 foot high on the left. Continue downhill just past the first drainage break, and continue on about 200 yards, where you will see a large mossy boulder on your left. Walk towards this boulder and past it heading downhill, and the SugarSmack Boulder will be the second boulder that you run into, looking like a cube sitting on a point.
Go 20' downhill from the Sugarsmack boulder to the next boulder, and the problems of the Love and Hate boulder are on the other side of the rock.
Climb below the arete of Love starting on small hands and moving right to left, finishing into Hate (V2).The arete of Love is off. It's tempting to try and move up in the middle, but there's no where to move up to! This scrunchy problem will annoy, frustrate and cramp, but it's an excellent problem....[more]Browse More Classics in CA