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George
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Another for the Road S 
Bloody Mary T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Curious George S 
George T 
George Direct T 
George of the Jungle S 
Hello McFly S 
Last Call T 
Lounge Lizards P1 S 
Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 
Lounge Lizards Variation S 
Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lounge Lizards P2/3 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: George from the Northeast
1 Crushed Velvet 5.7
2 [[...

Description 

Pitches two and three of a three-pitch bolted route combined. After the third bolt there are two choices: go right for a 5.8 variation or stay straight (the left bolt) for this route.

Fairly easy climbing through the first part, a short vertical section, then easy climbing to a ledge topped by a headwall. Climb straight up through the remaining three bolts on the headwall for a middle-ish 10 section, or decide discretion is the better part of valor and stay right on jugs at the arete for a 7- or 8-ish pusillanimous (discreet - I mean discreet) experience (you can still clip the bolts). Lower or rap to the belay, or walk off the top.

This has afternoon shade and was quite comfortable on a 90 degree late afternoon.


Location 

Get to George’s lowest, northeast belay (two hanger-and-ring anchors) via George Direct, the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling up some dicey terrain to the east. Follow the bolts up the “broken staircase”.


Protection 

8 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors (or 5 bolts and 3 bolts if split into two pitches). Hanger-and-ring anchors at the belay, and also at a belay/rap anchor on the ledge before the headwall.



Comments on Lounge Lizards P2/3 Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 18, 2007

I was hesitant about adding this since it isn't the full 3 pitches (but primarily because it means I have to confess I once chickened out on the first pitch and haven't yet tried it again).

Anyway, since you can get to the start of the second pitch without climbing the .10c first pitch I decided to go ahead and add it.

I wussed out on the last bit as well (stayed right on the nominal third pitch); I'll go do it again one of these days when all the body parts are fully functional and then update the description.

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Aug 30, 2008

Loved the airy exposure on this route!

Did P2 & P3 together and lowered all the way back to the top of P1 with my 60m rope (had 8' of rope to spare) so we could do Lounge Lizards Variation.

Nice shady climb on a hot afternoon.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 13, 2009

I think this should all be included as one route. The second pitch is pretty fun. At the steep part near the end, a new leader can get a bit sucked into the air under their feet, but there are really good holds here. Simply relax and look for the right holds. The third pitch has always been challenging to me. There are two ways to do it. Right up the middle or on the left side. The left side seems to have bigger holds but you have to do a bigger move at the crux. The middle seems to have a lot of not so good holds but search around. You can investigate the holds from the right side. Or just walk around and head back to "Another for the Road."

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 13, 2009

"I think this should all be included as one route."

That statement actually raises a question I've pondered from time to time: Should segments of multi-pitch climbs be listed separately from the full route if the segment is easier than the full climb and can be reached without climbing the full route? This primarily applies to first pitches (as with Cool World or Cool World Direct), but can also (as here) apply to later pitches. Note that I'm not suggesting that the full route not include descriptions of the separable, easier segment(s).

The advantage of having separate entries is that people can find the easier stuff through the route database search function. The disadvantage is the potential proliferation of entries.

I've considered starting a forum discussion about this, but so far I've been too lazy. Maybe it's time.

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jul 2, 2011

I thought that the first pitch (or the second pitch of the climb depending on how we're labeling it) was actually pretty fun. Then end of it has some nice exposure.
The last pitch has a really tough crux that kind of took me by surprise. It sure has a beautiful view at the end.