Often tried and often backed off...there are actually some pretty darn good holds that seem to hide pretty well. If you hang on past the second bolt, it eases off a lot.
Absolutely goes trad. if you can muster the courage to ignore the big fat RED bolts.
5 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.
Nicely sewn up with gear.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Apr 18, 2009
Climbed this one today for the first time. Did it all on trad gear, no bolts. I think it wasn't quite as hard as Turtle's Crack (AKA Martha), its neighbor, but I'm not sure. I used a few C3s (purple and green, I think), a small nut or two, a #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot, and I think the .75 and Camalot. Fun!
|By Brian Koralewski|
From: Springville, Utah
Sep 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Mostly 10a/b except for the difficult crux with tricky footwork (2nd-3rd bolt) which seemed like 10c to me.
Be careful clipping the 1st bolt (it can be easily clipped from the West side of the formation, but very high off the deck).
You will want to rappel off when cleaning (instead of lowering-off) as the chains are runout on easy terrain (which is good etiquette anyway).
|By Brandon Bishoff|
From: Austin, TX
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This route feels pretty hard until you find that thank God foot hold around the 2nd 3rd bolt. Once you've got that you're golden.
|By Canyon Copa|
May 29, 2012
Good route for those at this grade as the crux is early and over quickly once you find the right holds.