Type: Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: No one special
Page Views: 2,399 total · 18/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Interesting linkup of the quality first pitch of Lotta Balls with the upper pitches of Bruja's Brew, hence the name. The grade on this makes it the physically easiest line up the wall that I know of, but the character of the route makes it a stouter challenge than many trade routes of the same grade in the area-certainly miles trickier than Algae On Parade, for instance. Follow the first pitch of Lotta Balls past the anchor of that route, climbing right past obvious large flakes to horizontals that eat TCUs and then a short seam that takes a variety of good pro to the P1 anchor on Bruja's. Follow P2+3 of Bruja's to the top-more demanding climbing and trickier pro, as well as a large traverse that can cause massive drag if not efficiently engineered, make the upper 2/3 more serious and challenging than might be apparent until in the thick of things. A heads-up if not truly dangerous route-5.9 climbers on Bruja's have walked up these pitches for years, but don't expect walk-in-the-park plug-and-chug Birdland action here, boys and girls.

Location Suggest change

This route is located where it is found.

Protection Suggest change

I always rock double cams from tips to #3 with a full set of wires and a #4 boat anchor in Red Rock. This will serve well on the route, with plenty of gear left for improvising belays where convenient.

Photos

loading