All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Lots of Balls Slab Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lots of Balls Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	Amazing Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Autumn Sauna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Beat Street Trauma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Left of Fauna T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Patient Pace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

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Elevation:	6,400 ft
GPS:	40.5746, -111.7658 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,364 total · 37/month
Shared By:	Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. Details

That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.

Area Description

A goofy name for a pretty nice area. This crag is sunny and secluded. The rock is more coarse than is typically found in LCC. The slab is highly featured however. As you approach you start to wonder why you hiked up here to climb, everything looks so broken! Keep going, the slabs are actually quite fun, and hidden from the bottom!

This area saw ascents as early as the 60's. However due to lack of information out there a few of the old routes may have been equipped over. This is a great reason why we should try to document what has been climbed. This is by no means a reason not to visit this area however. If you like moderate slab climbing, emphasis on moderate, you'll love this area. The rock isn't too gritty, and here and there it is red and orange with patina all over!

Approach

Park at the Grist Mill, 0.55 miles east of the Park & Ride lot.

Walk down to the western side of the fence on the Grist Mill property. Walk up into the trees. Find the power line road immediately in the trees. You can see a faint trail leading up a steep hill from the power lines. Take this. Keep an eye out for cut branches and faint trail. If you find the correct approach you will find in-situ ropes for helping you over a few obstacles which is nice. When you get to the toe of the slab, hang to the east side of it and scramble up the gully (passing another in-situ rope). Go for about 500+ feet and look for bolts on your left. There is a large vegetated gully that splits the slab. There is bolted lines on each side of this gully.