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Although there are some bolts on this cliff, it is not a sport climbing area. The rock is good to excellent with great features: roofs, plates, thin edges, and cracks (yes, real cracks). For Mount Lemmon, this cliff seems to have a decent concentration of routes that demand some crack climbing skills. Unhinged is one of the best pure crack climbs on Mt. Lemmon for its grade. This cliff needs some anchor replacements so plan accordingly. This cliff is not listed in Squeezing the Lemmon. It is briefly described in Kerry's book.
Park at Lower Molino Basin campground. Walk east up the streambed. Continue past the waterfall using a trail on the left side of the streambed (as you walk up). Stay right where the stream splits and work your way up to the obvious, large series of cliffs. The 300 foot cliffs have massive roofs. The final scramble up the hillside will take another 15 minutes or so.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lost Wall:
Unhinged 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Featured Route For Lost Wall
Unhinged 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Lost Wall
This route is on the clean face on the left side of Lost Wall. There are four or five routes on this face (not listed in the guidebooks). Unhinged climbs the hand crack to the right of a couple difficult routes that have a few old-style bolts. It leads into a chimney about 75 feet off the ground. This route has excellent hand, finger, and off-hand sizes. Unhinged is vertical and sustained for the grade. It takes great pro and the first pitch ends at an old two-bolt anchor with slings. Climb...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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