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Steep friction at the start leads to much easier ground above. The opening moves are hard but the climbing above is fun. The whole thing has a runout feel, but that's friction climbing I guess. The Bingham guide shows this route shares anchors with the route to the right (Truth is Stranger than friction) but we found a separate set of rap bolts for this line above the small moss cover step.
Needs more traffic to clean up.
After walking around the corner to the Lost world, walk past the alcove below a bolt Line (12A to 10B) and along the base of the wall for about 20 yards. This is the first line you come to.
6 bolts to rap bolts, no chains.