A pleasant sunny slab that is perfect for the beginning leader or for a more proficient climber who just wants to spend a relaxing day in the woods. The climbs at at lost ledge are almost all slabs and the cliff is never crowded. While it is a distance into the woods, it is very easy to find with the proper directions.
Park off of the Kanc next to a stream marked as Ham Brook. This sandy pulloff is approximately 0.5 miles East of the Albany covered bridge. From here follow a trail into the woods. After a few minutes the trail will approach a stream and a stone campfire ring will be sighted. Do not cross the stream here. Instead continue up a faint trail along its bank searching hard for a cairn on the other side. This crossing point is about 100 meters past the stone campfire ring. Cross the stream at the cairn and follow the now prominent trail (marked with cairns) up to the cliff. The approach takes about 20 minutes.
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Sundown's Far Cliff seen from Lost
photo by Loran ...
The dirty uper pitches of the Carpet Slab area.Tha...
|By Dan Felix|
Aug 26, 2012
Do NOT follow the approach directions in the Handren book!! Handren details staying on the left side of the stream (river right) but also mentions following the yellow blazes. If you follow his directions, there will be no blazes and you will have a heck of a bushwack to get to the base of the ledge, but you can find it... For less frustration, follow the directions listed here- the stream crossing is shortly after the trail breaks through the short hemlock undergrowth. There is an old fire ring next to the stream at that point (not the ring by the parking area) and from there you can follow the yellow (and sometimes blue) blazes.
|By joshua corbett|
From: Wolfeboro NH
Aug 5, 2013
I went back out this weekend for the first time in 3 years, and it doesn't look like anyone goes out there. All the routes on the slab were dirty, looked like they haven't been climb since I was last there. I also thought that this was be a great area for beginners well its not really, great for top roping but not for leading. most of the bolts are 40 years old now, rusted and scary the anchors were in better shape this time but still not great. Two to three bolt in a 100 foot pitch might freak some beginners out. The best protected climb was Hallie Haley that had 4 bolts for the first 50 feet or so it was fun. I don't mind the 2 bolts per 100 feet but not when the are that old. If anyone wants to give me premising or if anyone knows how to get a hold of Joe, let me know and I will gladly change the bolts to new SS ones. Except Carpet Slabber I thin that one should stay the same for historic reasons. Anyway still very fun climbing.
|By Robert Hall|
Jul 12, 2014
We were back there today ( 7/12/14) for the first time in 3-5 years and it was a LOT different than the Aug 2013 description (previous comment), at least on the main slab. The better routes (which are most of them) now have 3/8" SS ( 5/16th) bolts. The only old 1/4"-ers we saw were on Rhumb Line, which is easily TR'd. (Josh...did you get ahold of Joe and replace the bolts? If so "Well Done!" )
As for the APPROACH...YES, you should follow the "Mtn Project" approach description ( or the one in Webster 3rd Ed. EAST, which is about the same). We tried to follow the new (Handren) guide book and we were lucky (or woods-experienced enough) to intercept the regular trail after bushwhacking up from the stream. Later, we followed the trail DOWN and found it crossed the stream at the old "fishing camp". At the 'camp-site' there was a real fire ring, and across the stream there was a "fire ring" that had never seen a fire. THIS is the (faintly) yellow blazed trail. I left a few survey-tape markers.
As for the climbs (on main slab) we didn't see THREE (3) bolted lines between Rhumb Line and Groov'in. I'm not sure how Handren got three lines here...there are only TWO bolted lines between Rhumb Line and Groov'in.
In 1975 Joe Cote would have put in 1/4" bolts...so I assume the line up the moss/lichen with three (3) 1/4" bolts is Rhumb Line.
Next, just to Rhumb's left, I assume VECTOR (1975) is the line with new-ish 5/16" bolts. LOST ARCH (1987) should start "halfway between VECTOR and GROOV'IN" and have "2 bolts...to a clean streak past another bolt" (Webster). The next climb to the left in Webster is "GROOV'IN". In Handren, there's another climb listed "just to the left of LOST ARCH" called FOUND ARCH ( 2004). This is supposed to have a total of Five (5) bolts. The description reads virtually the same as LOST ARCH except for the final two bolts. (i.e. a total of five) When you are at the base, there is simply only ONE route that "Climbs past two bolts"... From this I conclude that "FOUND ARCH (2004)" is the same basic climb as LOST ARCH (1987). Regardless of its name, it's a really nice route! I give it "3-4 Stars".
|By Bob A|
2 days ago
just to clarify,the line of Lost Arch is a totally independent line from Found Arch.
Found Arch is the line just right of Groov-in with the first two bolts fairly close together protecting the crux moves before stepping left across the moss streak to the third bolt.(also,if the first bolt seems like a stretch,there is a good right foot at the start of the overlap(look carefully before going too high) that is key to stand up and make the clip from.)
Lost Arch starts to the right at a lower bolt with a very committing crux before you get to the second bolt then the third is just above a pocket(big enough to stand in) with a small tree growing out of it.Third bolt is just behind it then one more bolt to the anchor.
Vector is an older line right next to Lost Arch.
Look for a 1/4 inch bolt just up and right of the first bolt on Lost Arch.Two more 1/4 inch bolts are hidden in the black mossy streak to the right of Lost Arch.
I replaced the three 1/4 inch bolts on Groov-in this year (May 2014).The fourth was a stainless in good condition.