Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches. I would recommend one, which definitely can be done with a 60m rope and I believe it can be done with a 50m.
Begin on the nice-looking right-facing dihedral, on the right (south) end of the west face of the formation. Good protection, good rock. Follow the lichen-covered crack in the middle of the dihedral to a small roof and step left, continuing on easy 5th class to the summit. The crack can also be continued through the roof (5.7) instead of traversing left.
Gear: Single set to #2 Camalot, set of nuts.
Anchors: Can use webbing/ cordlette around summit boulders. There was some new webbing with rap rings already placed when I climbed it (9/05).
Descent: Walk off easy 4th class heading east, to the east saddle, then descend north to join the approach route to the Sentinel.
|By Mike Mooney|
Sep 26, 2006
Wondering exactly where to move to the left?
There's a loose block, that's the place. Then belay.
(relax, this loose one doesn't seem to be going anywhere.
|By Steven Reneau|
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For the descent, we found easy 4th class heading east (not south) to the east saddle, then descended north to join the approach route to the Sentinel. The “rap station” was puzzling, with the rap rings on the east side of the boulders, but set up poorly to rap east (which wasn’t needed). Perhaps set up instead for the Tyrolean traverse mountainproject.com/v/106588698?
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It is definitely in good form to follow the crack all the way through the "roof". I did it both ways and did not find passing through the roof to be substantially harder than anything else on the route.
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Jul 16, 2012
If staying in the crack and going through the roof, one can afterwards step left as indicated. But continuing straight up is good clean rock all the way to the summit ... as led by franciscov.