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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beeker T 
Bumble Bee T 
Dystonia T 
Freedonia T 
Hannah Flower T 
Jack Knife  T 
Jack O'Lantern T 
Jesus Nut T 
Lost in Utopia T 
Makamah Road T 
Maze T 
Ora the Explorer  T 
Rumney Rocks Climb T 
Skywalker T 
Smashing Pumpkins T 
Stones , The T 

Lost in Utopia 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White August 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 9, 2012

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The moss and grass rock ramp at the base of this i...


Get on the moss covered rock ramp and go up. There is no other way. Follow the arching rock wall up left diagonally past trees near the wall. Now onto the rock climbing. It begins up right and goes direct over the black rock bulge. Unnerving crux this bulge. It is not easy. Not difficult after commitment. More short walls slabs and terraces. One more unnerving crux at length in there. Then the top slabs. Over three hundred feet and lots of easier climbing on it. Ridge moves on this one. Don't remember much. Didn't see pro. Saw lots of trees.


Start up the dirty moss covered slab left side of center gully. 12ft higher is the slab start to Dystonia and above that Hannah's overhanging arch. The moss ends at dirt and slipping off it would be very injurious. Keep going up until you can not go up anymore (there are two excellent inclining finger cracks from 10-12ft I passed. Enter big wood area ledge. Climb begins here. Direct and right above is the black rock bulge.


rope solo, trees, small stuff, one big cam

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