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North Carolina Wall
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Lost In Time 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P-1/P-2 Nathan Brown rope solo. 2001 P-3 Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Christian Drum 2001
Page Views: 1,180
Submitted By: nbrown on Mar 31, 2010
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The stellar pitch 2, with the overhanging 3rd pitc...
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  • Description 

    This is a great climb up the center of this smooth vertical part of the NC wall.

    P-1 This pitch just got a bolt added to the start -- it is about 20 ' up. Climb straight up to the bolt and move slightly right, then back up and left to some good holds and gear. Continue up the weakness that takes you up the water streak at the top. Belay next to the large boulder that sits on the edge of the ledge.

    P-2 From this giant ledge, climb the faint corner features directly in front of the boulder past surreal holds and gear placements. There is a fixed pin up high. Belay at stainless cables (chockstone rap anchor) under the overlap at about 100'. There are quite a few placements that are better with hybrid aliens up to the yellow/red size. Also bring some small brass. 5.10-

    P-3 Pull roof and move right a ways before climbing straight to the top. 5.9-

    Var last pitch: Pull roof and continue straight up the steep exposed wall past a bolt to the top. This is the recommended finish at 5.10+.


    Location 

    Right of the Slimey, and left of The Limey


    Protection 

    NC wall rack. P-2 is protected by numerous excellent small to medium nuts and cams, as well as hybrid aliens and some small brass.

    P-1 just got an upgrade -- bolt to protect the start.



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