The second pitch of Lost in Time is one of the best of its grade for the caynon. The quality is on par with "Upside the Cranium" and "Panic in the Gray Room".
P1: The first pitch starts on the blunt arete to the right of the obvious large tree about 80 feet up the wall. Place a small cam at the start and clip two bolts along the arete. Low angle climbing and one bolt leads to the tree belay. Let your partner lead this one. (5.9, 80 feet)
P2: The money pitch.... Follow 8 bolts up the clean slab, which is only marred by a horizontal crack after the third bolt. (#4 Friend) The large cam is probably optional, since the climbing is easy/secure in this section. Small edges lead past a few more cruxes to the bolt anchors above Handcrack-A-rete. (5.10b, 80 feet)
Rap Handcrack-A-rete with a 60m rope.
Lost in Time climbs the slab to the right of Handcrack-A-rete.
Light rack to #2 for P1, and a #4 Friend for P2....
|By Matt Richardson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 24, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The rock on this first pitch is definitely more friable than the second making for a not so nice P1. The second pitch is definitely the beauty. I made the mistake of letting my partner take this one and you would have thought the bolts were 20' apart (rather than 6') the way he whined.
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Excellent 2nd pitch. Well-bolted for the most part, although I couldn't clip the last bolt easily from the best stance (and I am pretty tall). If you are short, it might be exciting.
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 27, 2012
The quality is indeed on par with Panic and Upside, but the climbing is not quite as good. Panic is much more exciting and insecure. Upside the Cranium is twice as long with better position.
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 13, 2013
I was impressed by how well this route was bolted - I'm not quite 5'4" and could clip all the draws and felt the pro was well-placed for the crux moves. I placed a #4 Camalot partway up (new style, but old one would be even better). Felt harder than Ionic Column to me.