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Lost in the Sespe
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Black Wall Traverse V2 5+ |
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Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 265 ft (80 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,068 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Bury on Mar 31, 2015 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Lost in the Sespe features over two hundred feet of continuous climbing up a wild part of Black Wall. A 70m rope is required to complete the very long first pitch.
Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.
Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.
- This climb will earn an additional star or two when it cleans up, it features quality rock like its neighbors down the wall. Until then expect some scruff.
- In the future, it may be possible to avoid the scruffy ramp by climbing directly, but this variation would require some cleaning. For now, take the ramp.
- Careful use of slings is required to avoid rope drag on the first pitch.
- Making this a safe lead requires the leader be solid at the grade and experienced at placing gear.
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