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Lost in Space 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Downs (1978-79)
Page Views: 3,993
Submitted By: Stephen F on Dec 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Don Garner getting ready for the crux.

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1: Trend up the face, pull the right facing corner, belay.

Pitch 2: Pull the large roof right of the belay (crux); traverse up and right to a small ledge and belay.

Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.

Walk off


Starts under a right-facing corner, right of Star Trekin'.


Well protected.

Photos of Lost in Space Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the roof.
Pulling the roof.
Lost in Space, taken by Joe
Lost in Space, taken by Joe
Lost in Korea...
Lost in Korea...

Comments on Lost in Space Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
Dec 1, 2009

Beware of the potential for a rope slicing pendulum if the second falls in the crux.
By Keith Leary
Feb 22, 2010

Awesome. It is a three move wonder, but lovely rock and a wonderful location. Great photo op.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 3, 2010

To prevent the pendulum, stand up above the crux, place gear (small) out left directly over the crux piece.
By csproul
From: Davis, CA
Jul 20, 2010

Can be done as one pitch.
By chummer
Aug 22, 2010

Many years ago (1996?) Greg Martin and myself climbed the last pitch straight up from the belay after the roof move rather than following the right angling crack. We called it the "Danger Will Robinson" pitch. Not sure if we did it 1st or not.

The climbing was like 5.9 or 5.10 and an excellent finish for Lost in Space. Steep and pumpy, good gear but maybe a little spaced out. I thought this was way better and longer than the regular finish.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 14, 2012

Most Radical!! Every pitch is quality climbing with fun moves on quality stone! The second pitch crux (the Roof) is fit for its name, it will have you boggled and lost in space for sure, protects below (decent) and during the middle of the sequence (well, .5-.75BD) so make sure to prepare yourself if you want to stitch it! Last pitch is super fun and exposed as well, easy climbing though. A Must do for the Area! The exposure is Gnarly!!!!
By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Aug 17, 2014

If you are worried about the follower it's a good idea to set a belay about 30' past the crux. There's a good stance, and it allows for better communication and visibility, as well as less rope stretch.
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