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Lost Hawk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chihuahua Chimichanga S 
Chihuahua Power S 
Dog Daze S 
Doug Daze S 
Hennig's Blunder S 
Lost and Undecided T 
Lost Era T 
Puppy Chow S 
Scooby Doobie S 
Which is Which? T 

Lost Era 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA John Rupley 1967, FFA Steve Grossman,John Jurashek 1982
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Mar 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Lost Era

Description 

This is on the south face of Lost Hawk, on the opposite side from Chihuahua power. The easiest approach is around to the east. Climb an obvious large dihedral, lieback and stem your way to a big not so stable looking block. Go around the block and up face with a single bolt to chains at the top of the formation. Watch out for loose flakes.

Protection 

Large pro for the crack in the center of the dihedral, medium cams and nuts for the crack on the left wall. The one bolt on headwall has been replaced since guidebook and is now solid. Chain anchors.


Photos of Lost Era Slideshow Add Photo
Jon nearing the chockstone in the dihedral
Jon nearing the chockstone in the dihedral
Jon on lead
Jon on lead

Comments on Lost Era Add Comment
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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

i would not recommend this route to anyone but a seasoned trad leader. the whole middle portion is crumbling, and there is a death block halfway up that feels like it could pop and kill your belayer if you yard on it. i basically ended up running it out 25 feet in this section since the pro i put in would almost certainly not have held (i showered my belayer with gravel when i stuck in a cam in this section).

it does climb fairly well, but i would not be surprised if the death block pops off in the next 10 years and causes some serious hurt to whoever is on the route. if you are going to climb this, be sure you know what you are doing and BE CAREFUL!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

speaking of the death block, it may be a good idea to come up here with a crowbar and pry the thing off to avoid a future accident. i don't know what the ethics are for situations like this--do we need to ask the FA?--but pending that, if anyone wants to do it i am willing to spend a morning climbing chihuahua power then rapping in and prying the damn thing off.

without this damn block the route would easily be 2 stars, possibly 3.
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