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Lost Dentures 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kent Lugbill, Greg Hand and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 939
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Placing the first piece.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the lower tier. Start at a obvious flake in the center of the rock. Climb the flake (or climb the thin crack on the left 5.10). Veer left then straight up thin seams/cracks to the anchor.

Protection 

Small to mid-size.


Photos of Lost Dentures Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Dillon moving up the thin seams.
Peter Dillon moving up the thin seams.
Irina Overeem bouldering the flake start.  It's not too hard; maybe 5.5.  The direct start, up the thin crack just right of the belayer, is solid 5.10 with poor pro.  Get a spot from your belayer if you lead this. <br /> <br />The first bolt on Hip Replacement is shown in the upper right corner of the photo.
Irina Overeem bouldering the flake start. It's no...
The boulder problem start.
The boulder problem start.

Comments on Lost Dentures Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A fun bouldering traverse along the flake to get to the crack where you can place your first pro (#2 Camalot). The thin seams up higher took some thought to find the best line; I went a little right near the top to get some pro (blue/green hybrid Alien), then stepped back left for the final moves.

The anchor is two bolts with smash links and chains. The chain is already very rusty. This would be a good candidate for an anchor upgrade with quick links and stainless chain.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Sep 5, 2006

I replaced the anchor on this today. The original chain I bought was really strong, but was not coated and thus rustable. I have been replacing them as I remember where they are. Last week I replaced the chains on Depends and was going to do this one also, but I had an "incident" with Ray that cut our day short. He tore his biceps muscle off, and there was a lot of screaming!
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 18, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun little pitch. I found a perfect #10 stopper placement in a finger slot that protects the moves up to the bolt. You could plug an Alien in here, but then there would be no room for your fingers, and the stopper is bomber. There was also what looked like a good medium cam placement just above the lower shelf, although I had no cams with me.

Not to start a shit storm, but I am inclined to say that this would have made a better sport route. It is basically a face climb, and the placements are definitely not in a crack, per se. I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of moderate mixed climbing. Just my opinion.
By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 18, 2007

Ken wrote: "I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of easy mixed climbing. Just my opinion."

Fair enough. Your opinion. But some of us think mixed routes (bolts and gear) provide some of the most enjoyable and interesting face climbs around. It's great to have a variety of routes (sport, trad, and mixed) in an area.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 18, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I generally agree, Dougald. Just thinking out loud. I guess it's the very short nature of this route and wall that caused me to think about it that way. The routes at Nursing Home are almost like overgrown boulder problems.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Apr 28, 2013

This route has one bolt up high.