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Lost Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blacksmith, The 
Doughboy Project 
Earth Mover 
Jay's Crack 
Left Arete, The 
Lost Dyno, The 
Nose then Right Project 
Nose, The 
Novacaine Arete 

Lost Crag Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 1,184
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Jan 22, 2012
This Afternoon

55° | 33°

46° | 27°

39° | 28°

47° | 41°

53° | 36°

47° | 31°
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Usually hidden in the trees when the leaves are out, you may be able to catch a glimpse of this area from the loop road by looking NE from the vicinity of the Ball Buster boulder when they are down. This is one of the more extensive chunks of rock at Lincoln Woods, where people used to sometimes set up TRs in the past for the higher problems. With pads they are now getting done more as highballs. At approximately 20-25 feet at spots and occasional bad landings, a TR might still be a good idea for some lines.
If coming from the The Best Kept Secret area area, you will be dropping down around the left edge of the Main Wall. You will know you are there by the big clinking Champagne glasses graffiti on the otherwise tall, beautiful, gently overhanging Blacksmith face. The far right side of this crag is named after the route Earth Mover. Below are more boulders, including Dream Time. If you keep going east towards Goat Rock, you will pass the Coffin Boulder on the same hillside.

Getting There 

If driving around the pond on the loop road, after you have passed the dam and the T intersection (go left), after the road winds up the hill, but before you get to the Warm Up Area parking, take the paved road up the hill on your right to picnic area #s 25 and 26. If walking from the Warm Up area, follow the loop road back against traffic (east), past the Tomato boulders and in a few minutes the picnic road will be on your left. This spur road will take you up to two flat areas. In back of the first is Best Kept Secret Area, which is a great warm up spot. From this little crag head back into the woods (north) then turn right, slightly down hill (east). The lost Crag is only a couple minutes from the Best Kept Secret

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Lost Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Blacksmith climbs the thick flake/corner in the ce...

The Blacksmith V2-3 5+  Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Lost Crag
On the left side of the tall overhanging face, climb thin moves up the left facing corner formed by the giant flake to reach a horizontal rail. Move right and up, making a committing move that is hard to reverse and continue up to the scary mantle finish. Ward beat me to the bouldering FA by 3 minutes when I down climbed to brush the top-out off (grr) You will want to make sure it is clean when you go for it too.Straight up the face from the jug to the same top-out remains one of LW's quality un...[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Photos of Lost Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Lost Crag Boulder (Unsure of real name) Nice...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Lost Crag Boulder (Unsure of real name) Nice...

Comments on Lost Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Maxx Eichberg
From: Dunedin, New Zealand
Oct 13, 2015
is Dream Time on the boulder directly below Earth Mover, the climb on the far right side (triangle-type crimp) of the 2nd beta photo? If so, has anyone done it?
By Joe M.
Oct 14, 2015
You are correct, and yes, I have done it.
By Maxx Eichberg
From: Dunedin, New Zealand
Oct 14, 2015
Thanks for the quick response! It is a great line, hard for me though, v6?
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
Oct 18, 2015
The lines on the lower lost crag boulder should totally be added here as several of them are in fact really nice! I don't have the original names so I'd want to leave it to someone like you Joe who knows them.

as for Dream Time, with the right beta felt V4 ish to me.

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