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One of the most popular routes at Broughtons, Lost Boys lives up to the hype. The crux is tricky, and some what heady, but the rest of the climbing is fairly straight forward. Long moves or difficult sections will always be rewarded with a good stance and a rest.
Bat Wall, far right side.
Getting through the high crux on Lost Boys.
May 13, 2009
There used to be a dinner-plate-sized loose flake that was used as an undercling for the move past the last bolt. This flake came off some time during the 2008-09 winter. The move on the remaining undercling holds remains basically the same.
|By Ben Broche|
Feb 14, 2012
Perhaps a hold or two broke around the roof part of this route? The guidebook 'crux' at the top felt normal compared to other .10ds @this crag - however, the real crux now seems to be in the overhanging scoop/prow - requires a stemming knee bar and some long moves on just ok holds (you could see some broken hold scars); this part felt solid .11b/c to me. I climbed it twice just to make sure there wasn't alternate easy beta or a hold i missed - rad route, but I was bummed for my three other climbing partners (all solid .10+/.11- climbers) couldn't touch those moves even on TR.
Feb 15, 2012
I think the guidebook refers to 2 separate "crux" sections on this route. The general consensus seems to be that the first hard spot, at the 4th bolt where you pull around/over the overhanging prow, is the real crux of the route. It is insecure and sequential, and definitely hard to figure out the first time.
The upper "crux" listed in the guidebook, at the last bolt did get maybe little bit harder due to a broken hold a couple years ago (see previous comment), but is still more straight-forward than the lower crux.
|By Ben Broche|
Apr 16, 2012
thanks for the info - either way it is a really cool route taking a very striking line - but this thing is way sandbagged...onsighted a lot of .11+ stuff that went down easier than this thing!
|By Eric Schnepel|
Apr 22, 2012
Ben. . .
I agree with you. Even with the sequence figured out, I would say Lost Boys is a bit sandy at 10d. 11a/b seems fair. Most routes on the Bat Wall feel a letter grade stiff in my opinion, but I think Lost Boys is a bit beyond that.