Lost Arrow Spire Direct 5.8 C2
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 16 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.8 C2 [details] |
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| Submitted By: | Roger Suen on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Looking up the Spire
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description "With an easier approach than Half Dome, plenty of easy to moderate climbing and plush bivy ledges, Lost Arrow Direct is an excellent introductory wall. Nearby Yosemite Falls is stunning. The climbing is neither too steep nor too serious. This route is more involved and therefore harder than the South Face of Washington Column or Skull Queen but easier than The Prow."
-Supertopo
The Supertopo beta has all that you should need.
You can fill up water when the falls are pumping on the approach as you will come very close to them. Saves you some trouble there.
The wind whips out of the amphitheater pretty fiercely and expect to get sprayed by the falls. (Peeing can be an adventure)
Protection C2 Aid Rack - Nuts Double, Cams Triple, Offset Aliens useful. Rivet Hangers, Hooks
Looking down, you can see the first big bivy ledge...
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Hauling up Lost Arrow Spire Direct
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BETA PHOTO: Approaching the start of Lost Arrow Spire Direct
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| Comments on Lost Arrow Spire Direct |
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By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Oct 5, 2011
| The climbing on this route is extremely straightforward; in this, it is indeed suitable for the n00b. The logistics are another thing entirely, which is what sent the 3 guys from Wisconsin home with their laminated topos between their legs when we were up there.
The approach is burly and you might need a rest day by the time you get done with it. Water is a hassle unless you arrive while the little trickle at the base of the LA Chimney is flowing- springtime/post-rain only. Humping it from the Valley is no fun, and fetching it from Yosemite Creek entails at least several hours' worth of shenanigans. Getting over to the rim at the top requires some forethought; the alternative (climbing out of the notch) is non-gumby terrain, loose and sketchy.
Logistics aside, the location is amazing and worth all the toil. Special features include giganto bivy ledges, a seasonal torrent, and wind that will keep you in your tent until 8 a.m.
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