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On the Southeast (lowest) side of the tower is a hand crack that starts about a third of the way up. Head for this. Jam the crack or pull the jugs, your choice, for the offwidth to the top. Rap down the back side (uphill side) toward Puppy Chow and Chihuahua Power.
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
Oct 29, 2006
I left a Metolius Curve Nut #1 fixed above halfway up this route, couldn't clean it out and it was getting dark, so didn't have time to mess with it.
I climbed the route again today hoping to find it, but it seems that someone else may have gotten it. I also found two carabiners on the chains of the 5.9 in the dihedral. I am hoping that the owner of the biners has my nut and would be willing to exchange.
I still can't figure out exactly how this route is supposed to go, there seem to be many possible variations. I have to get used to not following a bolt line!
Great route though. It will take any size cam you have!
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 24, 2007
This route is definitely longer than 90 feet. Also, although I didn't finish on this variation, I was right underneath its finish and what's described as an offwidth looked more like a squeeze chimney or wider.
But yeah, a little "Lost and Undecided" is also how I felt before heading onto the "Which is Which" finish on the right side of the face.